The re-opening of Parlar was much anticipated after their core team travelled overseas and reconnected with Spain and the Catalan region during the Australian Winter. The inspiration they returned with is simply stunning in translation to experience in all aspects of this Restaurant. To be so expressive, finessed and cohesive after just two weeks makes it hard to imagine where the ceiling may be in terms of their renewed aspiration. Make no mistake, Parlar is the sparkling jewel in the crown of Andrew Becher’s impressive Rivage Hospitality Group that also includes Franca and Armorica (with an Italian offering on the way). Kudos also goes to innovative and talented Group Executive Chef José Saulog whose interpretive vision on the plate is as breathtaking as the art by Alexander Calder that beautifully envelops the space.
Three tasting menus are available, a three course La Merienda available between 5-6pm ($99pp), the five course Essence ($129pp), and the more expansive Adventure Degustació ($179pp). Trust me, the quality showcased on my visit deserves your commitment to the full experience, with a classic wine pairing ($125) or premium ($269) options available from impressive Venue Manager and Sommelier, Waldeck Ray. The exquisitely curated wine list is in itself a unique journey, if you prefer that more exclusive pathway with some impressive back vintages showcased. On the floor, the front of house team is very impressive at a time when that is no mean feat in itself to both source and retain. They move gracefully and confidently, and are very well informed on all aspects of this ambitious and immersive experience.
The crafted tone of the journey is set with some beautifully crafted snacks. A sophisticated Spanish take on a tortilla with pickled quail egg, potato, sabayon, oscietra caviar, followed by a properly lush chicken wing with chorizo stuffing, then Ox tongue, with moscatel salsa, pickled kombu, and “Tongue-natto” delivering a real punch of flavour. We conclude with a fluffy brioche to share with an intriguing trio of guindillas, anchovy and jamón butters. The next quartet of dishes starts with a pristine Coral Trout coated with spring herbs, ajo blanco (white gazpacho) and oscietra caviar. Its delivers a contrastingly textural and velvety mouthfeel, with clean and distinctive flavours.
Art definitely meets food on a plate with the Loligo Squid, chorizo, cannelini beans, tomatoes, and smoked almonds. Its both style and substance, and how the sauce holds its purposed shapeliness is beyond my comprehension. Likewise, a tart of preserved clams with carrot jam and saffron aioli is a kaleidoscope of colours and patterned textures. However, the unexpected dish of the night, is jet black silky Bomba rice, with spanner crab, king prawn, and squid – a symphony of seafood textures, and balanced by an acidity that effortlessly glides across the palate. Simply magnificent.
The Murray Cod, “Matsu-Kasayaki” style, emphasises the crispiness of the skin, with bacalao stuffed biquinho peppers, and vibrant Salmorejo complimenting the main protein. Aged Berkshire Pork Loin with morcilla, shoulder croquette, pickled onion, calvados jam, and delectable jamón jus is the quintessential sum of its parts. The small side of jamón and spelt risotto was like an encore. With the savoury phase completed, the miniature cucumber cornetto palate cleanser works perfectly, pathing the way for the White Chocolate Tarta de Santiago, basil ice cream, and strawberry consommé. Well-presented petit four and a nicely extracted coffee ends the evening just perfectly.
The mission statement to pay homage to the culinary heart and soul of Catalonia in an artistic and interpretive manner is triumphantly achieved on multiple levels. I always say that a Restaurant is the sum of its small parts, and Parlar is impressively connecting all the dots in this latest iteration which is poetically informing the bigger picture. This is a very special restaurant experience that will only go from strength to strength with the team that has been assembled. Inspired Restaurants often have a multi-layered narrative, and Palar delivers a very rich and rewarding one.
By Dane Richards
Parlar
Wednesday to Saturday from 5pm to midnight
(02) 91847744
Shop 3/81 MacLeay Street, Potts Point NSW 2011
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Main Image credit: Steven Woodburn
