Restaurant of the year: Attica (Vic)
Best New Restaurant of the year: Allium (QLD)
Best Local Restaurant of the year: Coya (NSW)
Regional Restaurant of the year: Wickens at the Royal Mail Hotel (VIC)
Exceptional Service Award: Victoria Zwierzynski, Berowra Waters Inn (NSW)
Chef of the year: Shaun Quade, Lûmé (Vic)
Dish of the year: Uni, koshihikari rice, cured egg yolk, fish maw, ama ebi, umami broth, Quay (NSW)
Producer of the year: Pecora Dairy (NSW)
Sommelier of the year: Ian Trinkle, Aria (QLD)
Wine List of the year: Dinner by Heston (Vic)
Caterer of the year: Black Star Pastry (NSW)
Cafe of the year: Bitton Gourmet (NSW)
Bar of the year: The Roosevelt (NSW)
Sustainability: Billy Kwong (NSW)
Best Young Chef: John Rivera, Amaru (ex Lûmé)
Outstanding Legacy: Gerard and Nannette Humair, Mere Catherine (NSW)
Very good restaurants come and go, however truly great ones like Sepia are never forgotten. So many of Chef Martin Benn’s dishes will forever reside in our memories, as culinary flashpoints, and moments of sheer extraordinary genius. On this night of eighteen snacks and dishes, there was a mid-point succession of courses, that transcended exemplary, into something far more surreal. The brigade executed liked gods, not just like a well-trained and professional group of exceptional mortals ‘in the zone’. This course, danced both on, and within the edges of the elusive quest, a sublime combination of produce, cohesive flavours, subtle textures and exquisite balance. Perhaps, it was unfair to pick just one highlight from so many, but everything around me lacked relevance, as my senses acutely focussed and appreciated the sheer beauty and magnificence of that moment; perfection – The Holy Grail…
With the sustainability of fine dining under siege, it is hard not to argue that restaurants like Amaru and sixpenny, which redefine the boundaries, without the largesse and costs that are undermining others at the top end, are the more progressive way forward. Chef Clinton McIver, and his small but talented brigade, present dishes with notable finesse and balance, that speak and connect with a new generation of diners. This beautifully balanced, and vibrantly uplifting dish, resonated with a delicacy of flavours which is indicative of the new wave of impressive talent that is shaping our culinary future.
There is a notable maturity and self assurance at sixpenny, both in terms of the narrative and structure of the menu, and with how gracefully the front of house showcase the overall experience. The departure of Chef James Parry has seen Aaron Ward confidently fill that void for Daniel Puskas, who continues to surprise and wow diners with his intuitive vision and exceptional execution. This restrained yet sophisticated dish is just one example, with the precise acidity and clarity of the core ingredient offset by the lush silky mouth feel of the divine clam butter, with caviar being a fitting exclamation mark.
There should be a new reference point for the definition of sublime in the dictionary. Chef Phil Wood’s exquisite crustacean butter is extraordinary, and the joy from it being served with flawlessly hand rolled strozzapreti, and succulent Moreton Bay bug ticks all of my boxes. That rare gift of an intuitive sense of balance is bestowed upon very few in the culinary world, yet every single dish I taste from this Chef, convinces me he fully deserves to be considered in that elite category. If Eleven Bridge maintains these standards, it will forge a legacy in its own right, and I for one look forward to following its journey very closely.
There is an inherit beauty found within dishes embracing the simplicity of well-sourced produce, cooked with both love and respect. This memorable dish from the talented and ascendant Chef Naomi Lowry, and Popolo’s soulful pasta Chef Stefano Gaspa, is a perfect example of that timeless premise. The lushness of the flawless house-made squid ink fregola , offset by the clarity of flavour from the stunningly fresh calamari, amidst the nuance of textures, and haunting resonance of the sea, embodies the very essence of my love of food. It is a dish of abundant joy and promise, that celebrates the ethos and generosity of spirit, that passionate owner/operator Flavio Carnervale has encouraged, and seen flourish at Popolo, since opening in the shadow of more grandiose adjacent concepts, long since passed. This is a restaurant, that is genuinely both for, and of the people…
In this age of globalisation, it is hard to find a tourist location that still has any sense of real authenticity left to offer like Chile, with such a vast range of diversity. Part of three continents (South America, Oceania, and the Antarctic), with over 6,000 km’s of coastline, it offers some of the most stunning and picturesque locations on the planet. This event promoted by ProChile, and held at the Ovolo Hotel Woolloomooloo, was coordinated with the arrival of the spectacular Chilean Navy tall training ship, The Esmeralda which was docked nearby. Launched on 12 May 1953, it currently sails as an ambassadorial ship of goodwill, promoting Chile, receiving invitations from countries all over the globe years in advance. On a previous visit in 1961, an estimated 100,000 people bid farewelled ‘The White Lady’ as she departed Sydney Harbour.
The synergy between the Chef and a Producer, who share the same ethical and sustainable philosophy, is “The Grail” that every true food lover searches for endlessly on every plate. In my opinion, award-winning Burrawong Gaian is the best poultry producer in Australia, and Chef Paul Cooper is one of the best exponents of showcasing their genuinely pasture raised produce in the land. The resonant smokiness from the sublime duck breast being astutely grilled over coals, served with intensely evil duck fat fudge, hay braised carrots, and a memorable coffee and pumpkin puree, ticked all of my boxes. This is what real dining is all about, spectacular produce, respectfully and innovatively prepared by a Chef at the very top of his game!
As the seasons change, so do the construct of dishes. Spring evokes a lighter and more vibrant touch on the plate, and Head Chef Darren Templeman playfully celebrates the breadth of that spirit, with this beautiful tribute to natures awakening. Stunningly fresh Fraser Island Crab, is delicately paired with smoked almonds, cultured curds and an eye-catching nasturtium dressing. This elegant dish of the month welcomes both the new season in style, underpinned by the culinary Holy Trinity of balance, textures and flavours…
Less is more. The beautiful simplicity of a well-executed dish is too often undervalued, but the Chef who understands the beneficial strengths of restraint, is at the very top of their game. Chef Richard Ptacnik at Otto showcases that philosophy, with dishes that deliver flavour and joy in abundance. His take on this timeless classic is both subtle and respectful, yet is delivered with distinctive texture and clarity. Less is more…
The restaurant scene in Canberra does not get much hipper than eightysix. The next generation front of house and brigade have a distinct swagger about them, but significantly they walk the talk, delivering dishes as accomplished as this one. The textbook house-made tortellini is absolutely flawless, with a silky pumpkin filling that harmoniously sings with the moreish burnt butter sauce, and crispy sage. The mascarpone adds a lush element, that seals the deal.
Chef Kerby Craig, who worked with Tetsuya Wakuda at Rozelle, showcases his own take on contemporary Japanese cuisine at Ume. This impressive standout from the 7 course tasting menu ($96), is one of the most cohesive and memorable vegetarian dishes that I have had; a veritable master class of technique, texture, flavour, and balance. Apart from each element being executed with precision, the synergy between the elements was absolutely outstanding.
What culinary magic is possible on the plate when celebrated Chef Kylie Kwong collaborates with award-winning Mid-North Coast Burrawong Gaian poultry producers Beth and Hayden McMillan?
Owner Stuart Knox sensibly has never allowed Fix St James to be something it is not, which allows Chef Mark Archer to produce such simple, but immensely satisfying dishes like this divine squid ink pasta. The texture and silky mouth-feel, delivered with along with a stunning clarity of flavour, with just the faintest hint of a heat note from the chilli, balanced off nicely by the orange zest, completes a very more-ish dish that represents the DNA of this very popular restaurant.
