The Potts Point institution has moved down the road to larger, stunning new premises, continuing to serve the same classic French Cuisine for over four decades
If I could irrevocably change one thing about the Sydney dining scene, it would be for us to value our well-established restaurants just a little more like Melbourne, rather than being seemingly obsessed with the shiny and new. One perfect example is Macleay Street Bistro, who after four decades is still going strong, having just moved a few doors down after a Development Application triggered the move to the old Monopole site. Whilst food trends sporadically come and go, they have instead stayed true to their French Bistro DNA, which ironically just happens to be the thing again in Sydney!
I confess to having mixed feelings when I first heard they had moved, but I really like their new digs, with the stylish fit-out designed by Ar Huis. Its far more open at 123sqm than the previous 61 sqm, without losing any of its Parisian charm, offering a more sophisticated and contemporary ambience. Fortunately Head Chef Callum Brewin and Sous Chef Gabriel Boikov made the move, and essentially brought across its greatest hits menu with them. Who doesn’t love a rustically cut steak tartare, steak frites, or the classic twice-baked French onion cheese souffle which won me over a decade ago. These are comfort dishes that sadly lost relevance as we blindly deconstructed everything in sight, and in my opinion sought style over substance. Not surprisingly, we lost our way, and perhaps even the heart and soul of our dishes in that quixotic fervour towards molecular gastronomy and Nordic minimalism.
Left with no option, I would have personally stormed the Bastille if The Chateaubriand served with a peppercorn jus and béarnaise sauce, accompanied by hand-cut, triple-cooked chunky potatoes with green beans was ever sacrificed along the way. Similarly, heart warming dishes like Chicken Chasseur à la Lyonnaise with Paris mash and pan rendered Fillet of Duck Breast served with peaches, eschallots and Armagnac jus are equally hard to find. Classics are just that for good reason, they are flavours and textures that have stood the test of time. I certainly do not object to a modern twist (within reason), and that is why this much-loved restaurant has been around for 43 years whilst others have come and gone.
For those with an old school sweet tooth, Crème Brûlée, Profiteroles à la Crème de Vanille, Dark Chocolaté Fondant and Crepes Suzettes served Flambé with Grand Marnier will no doubt tick your boxes. Wine lovers with cellars, rejoice as its BYO seven days a week for a very reasonable $14 corkage per bottle, except Sunday when its absolutely free! Otherwise, the wine list with its own cellar collection will more than adequately cover all your needs, and likewise with cocktails from Negroni all the way through to a Kir Royal.
We should be thankful that owner Phillip Fikkers has not blinked at Macleay Street Bistro, and that the joy and conviviality we treasure was never up for negotiation as he honoured the integrity of this much-loved institution and its traditional fare. Most importantly, he is protective and cares for what brings his loyal customers back time and time again. Rather fittingly, I will leave the final word to him. “They’re dishes people know and love,” he says. “The French onion soup is done the way it should be, with onions caramalised in butter over several hours. It’s been on the menu since we opened in 1982″.
“There’s been an explosion of French openings recently, but we’re not trying to do trendy French food with a twist. Our customers come here for comforting French classic dishes. Diners know what they are going to get, and we find many of them book the restaurant because they want a certain dish. I understand there’s a rush to dine at the hottest new restaurant, but a new venue can’t deliver what an established venue can. We have the experience to deliver impeccable service, a decadent menu, and an evening to remember,” he concludes.
Amen to that.
By Dane Richards
Macleay Street Bistro
Lunch 6 Days from 12.30pm (closed Wednesday), Dinner 7 Days 5.30pm to 9.30pm
(02) 93584891
71a Macleay Street, Potts Point NSW 2011
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