I know aged bubbly is not for everyone, but I find with the right Champagne house the unique characteristics add fascinating complexity to what is essentially good Pinot and Chardonnay blended under pressure. Ideally Oenotheque is the preferred representation, but occasionally the standard vintage release holds up well to scrutiny as was the case with this bottle. Medium gold colour with surprisingly good mousse and consistent beading, the usual yeasty sourdough evolved to hazelnuts and praline on the nose with grapefruit and crème fraiche on the palette, although it did finish a touch steely belying the usual style (95 points 30/11/07).
LBV ~ Le Bon Vivant 