Fix Wine Bar + Restaurant (14.5/20)

Fix owner Stuart Knox provides the diner with as much accessibility that is humanly imaginable, let alone possible. The key however is that quality is never compromised in any of the Bar/Restaurant/Wine Bar/Corporate Lunch/Pre-Theatre phases that play out in this slick CBD eatery. The menu, whilst pragmatically compressed, comfortably covers whatever mode is chosen as does the intelligent boutique wine list. This refined flexibility maybe the future of Sydney dining and Fix is the perfect template for those with similar ambitions.

The Antipasti of white anchovies and a fennel, pecorino and pomegranate salad is a very promising portent of things to come. Obviously, quality produce treated with respect and without complication is at the heart of Chef Sam Bennett’s menu. The rustic Kingfish crudo with blood orange has just the right ratio of acidity and texture whilst the veal, pork and chicken terrine’s unctuous and well constructed flavours redeem my faith in well executed cold starters. The bar however is lifted significantly higher with the generously portioned chicken, liver and sage pasta which is so deeply comforting that one can only longingly sigh on first taste. It is a simple yet rich pleasure.

Our service throughout is thoughtful, warm and without pretension which compliments the cuisine perfectly. Knowledgeable wine delivery is very much part of the experience and our passionate two way dialogue is encouraged without ever being intrusive or condescending. Also, the minimum spend of $50 per person that waives corkage is an innovative and welcome option for CBD dining. Our request for a deliberately slower pacing is perfectly followed whilst conversely service for a larger group flows perfectly. Fix perhaps a little too well located, is occasionally affected by the volume of passing traffic, however it dissipates against the growing vibrancy of the room.

The main of Wagyu striploin with bone marrow, mushroom and chips is so Rockpool Bar and Grillesq I can offer no greater praise. Done and rested to perfectly rare, it is a sumptuous homage to the heavenly texture of the produce. In essence, this dish lies at the heart of Fix’s own stated philosophy from day one of sharing sophisticated and quality tastes in an uncomplicated and approachable way. The available cheese option offers a small but intelligent selection and is generously portioned. We conclude with the very pleasant honey and clove panacotta and the particularly well extracted Allpress coffee is also worthy of mention.

Clearly the combination of Chef Sam Bennett and Sommelier/Owner Stuart Knox has been a perfect fit. With just a few tweaks, Fix could conceivably earn the industry recognition it deserves with a hat. Surely, enjoying extremely well executed and uncomplicated fare in very comfortable surrounds with exceptional service to boot is justification enough.

111 Elizabeth Street, Sydney
Mon-Fri 7.30-10.30am, Monday 12-3, Tuesday-Friday 12-3.30pm
Tuesday & Wednesday 5.30pm to 9pm, Thursday & Friday 5.30pm to 10pm
(02) 92322767
Licensed / BYO ($15 corkage per bottle applies)

http://www.fixwine.com.au/

Fix St. James on Urbanspoon

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