For those of you who may not have yet noticed, Summer Hill is establishing itself as an emerging culinary postcode lately. Apéritif & Co. is the latest addition to that trend this year, a European inspired Wine and Cocktail Bar by hospitality veterans Valerie Deeks, Versha Gupta, and Camille Bahier. “This transformation isn’t simply about adding another venue, it’s about ushering in a new standard,” says Deeks. “We’re proving that locals no longer need to venture into the CBD for an exceptional wine bar experience.” Whilst Executive Chef Luca Melis and Head Chef Teofilo Nobrega ambition was a series of elevated small plates, my experience delivered far beyond that expectation.
From the impressive cocktail list in the hands of French sommelier and mixologist Julien Perrimond, I can’t go past the nutty old fashioned, a peanut butter flavoured Whisky Skrewball, with demerara syrup, and walnut bitters. It’s very good, so its little surprise the wine list curated by award-winning sommelier Kasia Sobiesiak was crowned Australia’s Best Wine List 2025 (max 50 wines) and awarded 3 goblets. “It’s a journey across the best vineyards of the world and a celebration of simple indulgence,” says Bahier. New wines are added weekly, and with such an interesting and evolving global line-up available by the glass, its almost delivering an in-house wine education program as a bonus.
The decision to commence grazing starts with the caramelised Spanish chorizo, featuring a Merlot reduction. It’s beyond more-ish, and the large cut of freshly baked Brickfield’s sourdough with Pepe Saya beurre is torn apart by us with gusto to mop up that delectable sauce. Immediately, one can recognise a duty of care in the kitchen that is in synergy with the beverage program, again evident with the cheese soufflé, an impossibly light and heavenly combination of Emmental, Fourme d’Ambert, and Parmesan. I quietly sit back reflectively and nod approval that the needs of my quintessential wine bar experience have been comprehensively met so early in the visit. The fact that it is also proudly female-owned, in a largely male dominated industry, hopefully serves as a beacon and pathway for others to follow.
Those who regularly read my reviews know why I often order octopus, apart from the fact that I do actually genuinely enjoy it. It requires a fair deal of TLC in prep, otherwise you will end up with a forgettable and rather rubbery experience. I was confident that would not happen here, and they passed the test with flying colours. Chargrilled to perfection and served with a lovely romesco sauce, it was truly delightful. We tossed up between the Tasmanian Cape Grim Black Angus slow-roasted beef short rib, with demi-glace and the pork adobo, however decided on braised pork shoulder on this occasion. The interesting combination of soy, aromatics, celeriac and apple cider vinegar pulled the dish nicely together. I am absolutely convinced regardless of what you choose on the menu, the skillset in this kitchen will execute it on point.
We conclude with the tarte tatin, caramelised pink lady apples, with housemade vanille gelato. Apéritif & Co. which seats 45 inside and 25 outside, hits the mark right across the board, and it is the best new iteration of a wine bar I have seen for quite awhile. Service is both professional, warm and attentive and the atmosphere has that cosmopolitan Euro vibe that juxtapositions nicely with the laid back Summer Hill village feel that is treasured by the locals. In my opinion, this level of food execution at diner friendly price points transcends it from just a wine and cocktail bar, and ironically that evolution will be sought out by seasoned food and beverage lovers willing to travel from the CBD for such an exceptional and authentic experience.
By Dane Richards
Apéritif & Co.
Wednesday to Thursday (3pm to 10pm), Friday (2pm to 11pm), Saturday (12pm to 11pm), Sunday (12pm to 9.30pm)
(02) 8068 1067
25 Lackey St, Summer Hill NSW 2130
Bookings| Website | Instagram | Facebook
External and Interior image credits: Guy Davies
