One undeniable lesson I have learned in food reviewing is to assume absolutely nothing, and to always keep an open mind. Dodici is located at the Newgreens development in Chatswood, an impressive premium lifestyle wellness precinct, featuring a newly redesigned 12 hole golf course set to open in early 2026, 105 luxury residences, pool, gym, cinema, fine dining, casual bistro, function space, and cafe. This is potentially the next best thing I have seen to a self contained Heaven in one place, and it is still a work in progress. What really attracted me though, was the clear due diligence and duty of care that underpinned the restaurant’s ethos by its culinary creator Fabio Durpetti (ex Unico Ristorante in Five Dock). The result is one that achieves both style and substance.
Having toured the entire complex, its easy to see its appeal for Durpetti. It is a blank canvas to express your vision, and create an Italian dining experience that Chatswood has been crying out for. Apart form Dodici, it also features Tempo Bistro downstairs, replete with a Cafe that creates all of its pastry in-house daily. This a significant investment, but even more impressive is the meticulous thought behind every single detail. Having said all that, you still have to deliver on the vision, and impressively Dodici does exactly that. It starts with little things, the meet and greet and service by Floor Manager and Sommelier Gene Kroeger, a future young star of the industry. He is knowledgeable, personable, along with a work ethic that deservedly supports the Chef and his brigade.
The interiors by award-winning designer Nic Graham (QT Hotels, W Hotels) is simply stunning, as is the architecturally designed clubhouse by Marchese Partners. Where to start? The Dark and Stormy on an evening in keeping with that theme, seems appropriate. It’s a cohesive mix of dark spiced rum, with Montenegro, Amaro Averna and lime, topped with San Pellegrino Chinotto and it hits the mark perfectly, setting the tone nicely for what is ahead. There is a dedicated lounge area (with bar menu) for pre-dinner drinks, however on this occasion we choose to graze on the more-ish freshly baked garlic and herb bread at the table, with an EVOO that is noteworthy. First dish up is the deliciously layered construct of beetroot gnocchi, with gorgonzola, sage, dried pears, and crispy guanciale. Boy it is good, taking me back to my love affair with gnocchi, which really started after tasting Alex Herbert’s at Bird Cow Fish. It’s an art form in my opinion, just ask any Nonna who have spent their lives lovingly perfecting it.
It’s early days, but looming large as their signature dish is the Spaghetti al Nero. The luscious mouthfeel of homemade squid ink spaghetti, WA king prawns, rich lobster bisque, punchy yellow cherry tomatoes, and chorizo powder all makes for a compelling argument. Cookery like this is unmistakingly from the heart, a love letter from the kitchen to diners who share the same passion for genuinely uncomplicated flavours and textures, brought together in a symphony of triumphant taste. It’s a hard act to follow for the plump six week old grade A spatchcock, with new baby potatoes, broccolini, and spicy mustard sauce, which is a different but emphatic take on this Chef’s voice on the plate. It doesn’t go without notice, that I can smell the aromatics of the majority of dishes leaving the kitchen. This is real cooking without the need for smoke and mirrors. It also has a very impressive Pizza oven, that smartly is also utilised to finish off dishes to good effect.
When Porchetta is on the menu, I simply cannot leave without trying it, and I am not disappointed by the Roman style crispy skin Berkshire pork, creamy mash potato, and celeriac remoulade. Afterwards, the question is, can we fit in dessert? Of course we can when the curiosity of “Tiramisushi” takes hold. This playful take on an Italian classic oddly works, as it initially had alarm bells ringing for me. Served with chopsticks and a dipping sauce, it requires a total suspension of disbelief – however, after a lifetime of the traditional serving method this ended up being an innovative interlude. Back to regular programming, we conclude with a delightful short crust lemon and basil tart with a white chocolate cremoso. The pastry work is exceptional.
Dodici and the Newgreens precinct was a very pleasant and rewarding revelation, so do not make the mistake of discounting it simply because it is associated with a golf course, as that would be denying yourself the opportunity of savouring a truly authentic Italian meal. Chef Fabio Durepetti says, “At Dodici, we want every plate to tell a story — of where the ingredients come from, of the Italian traditions that inspire us, and of the joy that comes from sharing food with the people you love. My hope is that guests leave with full hearts as well as full stomachs.” That is a mission statement that both fully resonates with me, and was totally accomplished on this visit. I love the world of food and wine as it truly restores my heart and soul, and I left Dodici later that night entirely enriched by the experience.
By Dane Richards
Dodici
Lounge: 3pm – 9:30pm | Dining: 5:30pm – 9:30pm | Kitchen closes at 8:45pm (daily)
Monday to Tuesday (pizza and pasta menu), Wdnesday to Sunday (Á La Carte Menu)
(02) 94192336
130 Beaconsfield Rd, Chatswood NSW 2067
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