We are amidst an economically driven hospitality paradigm, and savvy Managing Director of the Rivage Hospitality Group Andrew Becher has acknowledged that with the opening of Le Frérot. The lovely intimate space was previously occupied by Palar which was one of my top dining experiences in 2024. It pushed the boundaries with Group Executive Chef José Saulog showcasing his significant skillset. However, the market has largely shifted away from those type of fine dining experiences towards more fine casual dining. Le Frérot, which translates to little brother in French is only ten metres from its big brother Franca and in my opinion exactly hits the intended mark by its owner.
“We’re absolutely delighted to be opening Le Frérot in the heart of Potts Point. This new café, bar and bistro will bring a fresh French concept to the neighbourhood, right alongside our beloved Franca. Open seven days a week from morning through late evening, Le Frérot gives our guests an all-day dining experience while adding an exciting new layer to what we offer across Franca and Armorica. It’s a natural little brother to Franca, with familiar nods to what has made it so successful, but with its own unique character and energy.”
I choose the dinner option first, and started with the croquette du jour and beef tartare. Both uphold the fine standards of any snack elsewhere in the group, which apart from Franca, includes Armorica and Pelicano speaking to the enviable consistency that Group Executive Chef José Saulog sets in every venue. The twice baked fromage soufflé with sautéed mushrooms is equally delicious, and there are not enough baguettes in the world to mop up the delectable remains from the moules marinière with white wine, garlic, kombu and wasabi butter. If this is synonymous with the pitch of Le Frérot, then I’m “all in!”
If you like bottomless frites with Provençal seasoning right to the edge, you are in heaven. We start that triptych side odyssey with the En papillote fish fillet with white wine and provençal butter. Its a risk and reward technique that is sadly seen less of these days, due to risk of cooking it effectively blind amidst a busy service. The delightful canard of aged Wollemi duck breast follows, and who could leave without trying the flavoursome Jack’s Creek Mb3+ black Angus bavette, with the level of doneness absolutely on point. You can choose your excellent accompanying in-house sauce from bearnaise, poivre, Café de Paris, pipperade and sauce verte, and you simply can’t go wrong. Its those little details which define the duty of care of any memorable restaurant.
For dessert, the accomplished crème caramel with Armagnac is beautifully set and a fittingly proper way to finish. So, to brunch on a second visit, and we order the Croque-Monsieur with double smoked ham, with gruyère and béchamel, which can also tout itself as a Croque-Madame with the addition of an egg. It’s undeniably more-ish, and enough to make Le Frérot a regular haunt for me. The last good one I had was at Bistro Guillaume in Melbourne (pre-COVID), and you try find one as good as this in Sydney. Out of curiosity I order the “French” Cubano with paté de campagne, saucisson sec, ham, pickles, gruyère, grainy mustard in a brioche roll. Its particularly well-balanced and I suggest ordering both, cutting them in half, as sharing is most definitely caring.
Le Frérot may be the little brother of Franca, but its a very cheeky sibling that is very competitive and is not afraid to seek the attention that it deserves. This is very well-executed fare in the spirit of a Parisian café-bistro at exceptional price points given the quality of produce and duty of care. Its set in the heart of a modern and reimagined Potts Point, so the demographic is both young, diverse and beautiful, with a splash of old and new money, and regardless of either they know they have a new gem in the hood. Hats off to Andrew Becher, this is another winner that has read the current culinary landscape and responded with what diners want from every postcode. I still miss Parlar, but this has softened the blow, and a lazy brunch followed by the markets, or a day at the races sounds just fine to me. Le Frérot is all things to all people.
By Dane Richards
Le Frérot
Breakfast daily from 7am – 2pm
Lunch daily from 11.30am – 4pm
Dinner daily from 5.30pm ’til late
(02) 8358 5560
3/81 Macleay Street, Elizabeth Bay, NSW, 2011
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