In the Sydney diner’s chase for the shiny and new, its way too easy to overlook our institutional restaurants, who have stood the test of time for very good reason. Flavour of India, established in 1990 and now some thirty five years on with the original Head Chef Hayat Mahamud, plays its greatest hits every service. On the night before his tragic passing, Michael Hutchence, frontman of INXS, shared his last meal here, and whether it be celebrities like Russell Crowe or Nicole Kidman, it has always been a place for people from all walks of life, drawn by the commonality of a memorable food experience to meet and let the hustle of New South Head Road pass them by.
Waiting for my dining partner, I start with a refreshing and rather luscious mango lassi, with some pappadums and condiments. Its a great precursor to a mixed entrée of sublime tandoori lamb cutlets, chicken tikka fillet and samosa’s, served with a tangy mint sauce. Having been disappointed by so many over cooked iterations of tandoor lamb cutlets over the years, this was redemptive. These had a complex depth of flavour, whilst being incredibly tender, and set the tone for what was to come. The 2022 Pirramimma Stock’s Hill Shiraz from McLaren Vale, incredibly well-priced at $42, absolutely rocked with this dish. BYO is also welcomed at $4 corkage per person, and given the deep cellars in this postcode, its also an attractive option.
After pondering the plethora of curry options, who doesn’t love a butter chicken! We choose medium heat – which proves to be spot on for our palates, but if you are more adventurous you can turn the volume up to high. The creamy red masala
sauce is both well-balanced and delicious, with a generous portion of tender chicken throughout. We order a range of naans, and they all pass muster with flying colours, even the next day at home reheated. The generous serve of basmati rice ensures that you leave the restaurant well indulged, most likely taking some home with you. They are very happy to accommodate, so don’t be too proud to ask.
In my opinion, there is not enough goat on menus in Sydney, and its an obligatory order when I find one. The meat is sautéed in spices then slow cooked with onions, garlic and potatoes, with the seductive colour an obvious indicator of the duty of care taken throughout the process. I should mention, you can smell the aromatics of every dish on its way to the table, so the sensory experience is an integral part of this well-considered spice journey. Desserts seem a leap when I am asking for leftovers to be arranged, however the date and pistachio kulfi, effectively a layered house made ice cream tower, with candied oranges drizzled with date syrup, does cleanse the palate off nicely.
The warmth of the welcome by Head Chef Hayat Mahamud is clearly translated to the plate, and on my visit he checks in with guests at every table to see how their experience is travelling (if only more took the time to do so), which also speaks volumes of Bevan and Christine Neale at the helm overseeing the operation. There is a moral to this story for Sydneysiders, don’t take longevity for granted, celebrate restaurants like Flavour of India, because they authentically believe in what they are trying to to be, and aim to deliver on that promise every service, when often many others with less clarity of focus will be long gone. Both connection and trust between diners and restaurants is an invaluable exchange, and that is the soulful currency transacted here. This restaurant is an oldie, but it’s certainly a goodie!
By Dane Richards
Flavour of India
Daily from 5.30pm
(02) 9326 2659
128 New South Head Rd, Edgecliff NSW 2027
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Main image credit: Katje Ford
