Located in the site of the former, and much-storied Sebel Town House, Divino Osteria is an ode to the warmth of authentic Southern Italian Cuisine. Head Chef Andrea Di Stefano from Catania, has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens, however has decided to bring the foundations of that skillset into a more convivial and less structured environment where diners can truly relax with more heartfelt food and wine. Whether you choose the popular enclosed terrace, bar, or inside seating – there is a distinct conversational vibe throughout where diners have seemingly left the outside world behind them. This is very much in keeping with Owner Anthony Alafaci’s vision, “Our goal was to recreate the kind of experience you’d find in a family home in Southern Italy, good food, good wine, and good company.” I’d say mission accomplished!
Starting with a Negroni, featuring the Vermouth upgrade confidently suggested by the waiter, gets everything off on the write note. It’s particularly well made, awakens the palate, and gives us time to ponder how on earth can they pull off a Carbonara pizza? Well, the answer is absolutely yes they can, and spectacularly so! The textural integration of the Fior di latte, pecorino fonduta, pancetta, egg yolk cream, and pepper is so well-judged proportionally, that it instantly evokes the taste profile of the dish that we all love so much. The nicely executed base anchors the wet element so well, you forget the traditional pasta element, as your sense memory is triggered. I would without hesitation return for this alone, as it is akin to walking the highwire without a safety net. This audience both sighed and applauded to a kitchen that said why not!
With such a hard act to follow, the beautifully presented Spaghetti al nero di seppia, with squid ink, zucchini, King prawns, and truss tomatoes is confirmation that we are in very good hands. The prawns are absolutely on point, likewise the rich black ink coating the pasta just right so you get that lovely mouth feel, along with the vibrant tomatoes that are both juicy and punchy. Having passed the pasta test with flying colours, next is the more problematic risotto examination. We order the risotto con funghi porcini from the specials, which you can seductively smell the aroma of immediately upon arrival. The porcini’s are plump and flavoursome, with the dehydrated parma ham used as both a visual and textural counterpoint, along with parmesan fondue added for some richness. It’s a winter warmer, with the carnaroli providing enough bite, before the palate is felly enveloped with all the components. Nicely done.
I absolutely love Spatchcock, so the main was a relatively easy choice. This was a very decent sized spatchy, fleshy and plump like the mixed mushrooms that accompanied it, and finished off with a more-ish foundational sauce that brought the whole dish together. The chilli was fairly subdued, so the moist body and flavour of the poultry was showcased to best effect. On this occasion, I was defeated by my own ambitions with the savoury part of the menu, however they wouldn’t let me go without trying their house-made Limoncello di crema, and it is truly devine, which ironically in Italian is translated to Divino. A rather fitting way to end I thought – although I will be returning to this Osteria to try the Dolci (and that Carbonara pizza again)! Sydney is blest with some wonderful authentic Italian Restaurants, so do your homework, and you will be suitably rewarded.
By Dane Richards
Divino Osteria
Tuesday to Sunday: 5pm to 10pm, Thursday to Sunday: 12 pm -3:30 pm
1300 348 466
1/19-23 Elizabeth Bay Road, Elizabeth Bay, NSW, 2011
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Main image credit: Guy Davies
