There has been a lot of hype recently about the new food precinct at Wunderlich Lane, and from a quick first look, it’s pretty impressive both in terms of scale and quality. However, slightly shifting away from that media focus, only a block and a bit away is Nawabi, also well worth a visit if you’re in the hood. Surprisingly, finding a quality curry is a little harder than it first seems in Sydney. That might appear like a rather sweeping generalisation, but I always let my belly do both the talking and walking in this gig, and after eating at twelve prospects in a two month period one year, things looked somewhat bleak. However, discovering Nilgiri’s rejuvenated my efforts, and it indeed remains a worthwhile journey when you discover a good one. In that spirit, let me introduce you to Nawabi on Cleveland Street in Surry Hills!
A couple of things struck me about Nawabi, firstly it instantly felt better when at an adjacent table, excuse the pun, a rather seasoned curry club is returning and seriously tucking in. Also, in this challenging economic period, their prices are outrageously good, and they also allow byo (with free corkage). Sounds instantly like a win/win to me. Both banquets are intended for four, priced at $59.90 and $69.90, and when you consider they include three and four curries respectively on top of everything else, this is great value when you are bringing in the beverage for no cost. There is no wine list, so its a great chance to duck into the bottlo, or raid the cellar. On that front, don’t let that stop you from having a richly layered mango lassi beforehand, its definitely worth it and it awakens the palate for what awaits.
So what to order, we are 2 pax, which makes the banquets a must try for another time. We start with samosa, a non-negotiable for a pass mark, and these are filled with a spicy potato and pea mixture, served with tamarind chutney, and they certainly do not disappoint. The crispy pastry on which it either succeeds or fails, astutely hits the mark and we are off to a good start. I should mention the papadums that are made to order are irresistible, especially with the vibrant mint chutney. The same applies to any of the breads or naans, and likewise with the array of condiments. We follow up with the meat platter for two, a generous and more-ish combination of tender chicken tikka, flavoursome lamb kebabs, lamb chops (why not) and tandoori fish. Normally seating me with a view of the kitchen occasionally has unintended consequences, however all I observe tonight is a purposeful duty of care and it shows on the plate.
By this time of the meal we are truly hankering for a good curry. Whilst fixated on goat as our preferred choice, the spicy mutton, listed on the menu as being prepared in Mughal traditional woks using onion, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and fresh ground spices more than fits the bill in substitution. It has serious depth of flavour and works well with the sweet Kashmiri rice loaded with saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, raisins, almonds, ghee, and even the odd glace cherry thrown in for good measure. I shall be rounding up a table of four to sample the other curries on offer, as clearly they showcase and execute their star of the wheelhouse particularly well. My ambitions of a Bombay or Madras curry to follow are only defeated by the size of the servings, as evidenced by a couple across from us who take at least half of their meal home. Having said that, the Curry Club and table of lads behind me are still charging ahead with both vigour and purpose. I try to err more on the side of an elegant sufficiency these days, however I still admire generosity of hospitality when I see it.
Service is very well-meaning, and when the full dinner rush is on, the kitchen kicks into gear and responds. I must say the room is an aromatic delight in full flight, and for a Tuesday night the room fills very quickly. It largely appears to be very satisfied locals, with a smattering of curious visitors, but as the word spreads that mix may change. The more the merrier I say, and they do have a function area if you want to get your food-loving tribe together to experience it first hand. For dessert, the pistachio kulfi, a traditional Indian frozen dessert made with slow-cooked milk and crushed pistachios, will both scratch your sweet itch and cleanse the palate. The Nawabi experience won’t cost you an arm or a leg, whilst enjoying some lovely food genuinely cooked from the heart and soul and walk away entirely satisfied. The menu mentions the Royal heritage influences in its cuisine, and you will be greeted and treated in that spirit, so what are you waiting for!
By Dane Richards
Nawabi, Surry Hills
Tuesday to Sunday 5pm to 10pm
1300629224
351/353 Cleveland St, Surry Hills NSW 2010
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