The history of Iranian, or often also referred to as Persian Cuisine, dates back some 3500 years, depending on which historical source and cultural influences you are referencing. More unequivocally, it is a rich cuisine layered in spices and textures, and sadly it has been somewhat hard to find authentic iterations of it in Sydney until recent times. Fortunately, Shila Kitchen in Balmain, a Delicatessen by day come Restaurant by night, is looking to bring greater awareness to the incredible tapestry of flavours and influences behind this fascinating cuisine. However, once you experience, slowly learn, and embrace the culinary heartfelt soul of that culture, it will inspire a deeper journey of discovery.
I start with a ‘Taste of Treasures’, four spreads served with house-made crunchy pita bread. The good news is, at anytime you can drop by and purchase these over the counter – so your dinner party tasters are sorted! The owner Saba recommends Maast Moosir, creamy yoghurt with Iranian shallots, finished with sumac and olive oil. It has lovely texture, clarity and piquancy – and is simply delicious. Similarly, the Spinach Borani, creamy yoghurt with spinach, and caramelised onion finished with olive oil delights. The fenugreek was a perfect counterpoint, and is particularly well-integrated. The quartet was finished with the warm mouthfeel of Kashk Bademjoon, caramelised onion and eggplant slow cooked with fermented yoghurt, and finished with fried dried mint and walnuts. All a treasure indeed.
What immediately caught my attention, whilst I was devouring the above, was a large collection of bottles with fermented garlic pickle. The current batch they are using dates back to 2013/2014, so the taste profile has considerably sweetened since, and this for me is an example of the commitment, passion, and duty of care being undertaken. Likewise, the Caspian olives, marinated in mint and garlic, tossed with pomegranate molasses and crushed walnuts, and finished with a sprinkle of Persian hogweed are so more-ish coated with all those secondary textures. Rather ironically (as I can attest to later), I move onto the Stuffed Selection, the Chef’s choice of filled vine leaves: eggplant, zucchini, and cabbage dolmas, each filled with a flavourful blend of rice, onion, and herbs slow-cooked in tangy lemon juice. The taste profiles are both clean, and fulfilling.
Eventually after much deliberation for mains, I land on the Chicken Fesenjoon Stew, a deeply concentrated and harmonious blend of walnuts and pomegranate molasses slow-cooked with chicken Maryland and caramelized onions served with saffron rice. Its a lovely spectrum of flavours, just leaning into that slightly sour tamarind like profile. The grilled marinated lamb backstrap that follows, paired with lovely smokey baba ganoush, Caspian olives, grilled tomato and chilli, and served with sliced onion, parsley, and lavash bread, has me reluctantly waving the white flag. I instead ask for a take-away selection of their extensive pastry selection, which are devoured later that night might I add, so I can understand why they are are so popular with the locals who regularly come and go during service to restock.
Shila Kitchen is a local gem that proudly showcases Iranian/Persian Cuisine, and it offers many ways that you can choose to indulge in it. Walk up and grab a table, inside or out, or just use their click and collect facility – if an ad-hoc impulse visit for some over the counter spreads or pastry won’t fulfill your need for a more expansive range of dishes. Whatever the approach, one thing is for certain, you will not leave disappointed. In my case, it has evoked a desire to delve further into this cuisine and the mosaic of influences which have shaped and evolved it. Open your heart, and your mind, and that journey will take you to a vast sensory alphabet that literally has no boundaries, and have stood the test of time. In the troubled world in which we all live in today, it is a salient reminder that if you sit at table and break bread, you will always learn more about the heart and soul of its people.
By Dane Richards
Shila Kitchen
Thursday to Saturday 8am to 9pm, Sunday to Wednesday 8am to 3pm, Breakfast 8am to 11am (7 days)
325 Darling St, Balmain NSW 2041
Website | Click and Collect | Instagram | Facebook
