It is hard to categorise the 5th Earl which can be found at the entrance of The Cannery in Rosebery, as you could define it as a bustling Cafe in the morning, an all day eatery thereafter, and even leaning towards a Bistro on Friday and Saturday nights. What is more certain, is the undeniable warmth of its hospitality, value for money, and generosity on the plate. On my first visit, I wasn’t the only diner leaving with leftovers, and sensibly I was far less ambitious on my second visit. The vibe is upbeat, largely driven by their loyal locals, and you have the choice of dining inside, or al fresco, depending on your mood. You aren’t kept waiting regardless of how busy it gets, and with such a large menu offering, perhaps just have a quick browse online before you visit.
The coffee blend is from the multi awarded Wood Roaster in Marrickville, displaying a rich aromatic crema and distinctive flavour profile given the science of that method, which really showcases the characteristics of the particular bean being roasted. I went straight to a ristretto, more for purists than the faint hearted, and it was very professionally extracted. Good news also on the juice front, as everything is freshly squeezed and you can choose up to three combinations. Onto food, and my dining partner chooses the very thick brioche French toast from the breakfast menu, topped with bacon, fresh seasonal fruits, whipped mascarpone, maple syrup and served with salted caramel ice cream, and not surprisingly wants for no more. I choose the Earl’s burger from the lunch menu, a wagyu beef patty, with caramelised onions, American style cheese, tomatoes, pickles and mixed leaves; topped with smokey BBQ 5th Earl sauce and shoestring fries. Similarly, it was also enough for me, and looking around the whole tribe did not look famished from the servings. Unlike Michael Douglas’s character in Falling Down, they will let you mix and match, regardless of what time you arrive!
Having done Brunch/Lunch, curiosity drives me to their Dinner offering on Friday and Saturday nights. The Old Fashioned looks a great way to start, and they pass the cocktail (and ice cube) test. Now if you’re an aficionado of old school garlic bread, this is your place. Nosferatu will clearly not be visiting you later after indulging, as they make no apologies for delivering exactly how it should be made (always). If your partner has a problem with it, that’s entirely their issue, as good garlic bread (trust me) is increasingly harder to find. Reviewers often select dishes that have simple pitfalls, or require a deal of technical skill, and fried calamari is the first category. When it arrived I thought it may have been over, but that was not the case, with the texture as noteworthy as the house made garlic aioli. Likewise, the smoky chorizo hotpot served with focaccia, was a spicy number that dialed up the volume, and was a nice contrast.
Let’s be clear, they are not chasing hats here, so there’s no fussy presentation or pretention with the service, and I have to say, that often comes as a welcome relief. Somewhere along the road we forgot the simple joy of feeding people, and delivering commensurate hospitality. No such concerns here on either front. The huge crab ravioli, covered in a creamy Napoletana sauce topped with beautifully cooked prawns, couldn’t sum up the generosity of spirit in play here any better. The dinner menu covers a multitude of cuisines, evidenced by the Duck à l’orange, Lamb Souvlaki and traditional Paella, so I suspect Chef Bishal is both experienced and well-travelled.
We finish with a huge tiramisu, and the walk back to Green Square Station (with takeaway), looks exactly what the doctor would have ordered – if he ever stumbles upon my reviews. The 5th Earl is not trying to be a fine dining establishment, rather finding its place as a relaxed casual eatery, that in a tough economic times feeds and services you very well, and along with that extends you a genuinely warm experience. Judging by the number of locals that are supporting it – it is succeeding in that brief, and has just launched a catering service for the large family and business demographic in their area. I should also mention there a lot of healthy options on the menu, if that’s your preference. For visitors outside of Rosebery, parking is not an issue, and The Cannery may also service some of your other needs whilst you are there. However, for the local Community, its just a perfect place to break bread, and share life’s stories with friends, family, and loved ones!
By Dane Richards
5th Earl, Rosebery
Sunday to Thursday 6am to 3pm, Friday to Saturday 6am to 9pm
(02) 8838 1110
The Cannery, 34 Morley Ave, Rosebery NSW 2018
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