Chef Nelly Robinson is of one of Sydney’s and Australia’s most innovative Chefs. It could also be said that his evolving narrative is without peer, and from a sheer creativity and presentation perspective – its largely unparalleled. Of course, none of this matters unless you can back it up with substance, both technically and with cohesive flavours on the plate. For ten years at NEL he has pushed the envelope, and withstood criticism from some that it might just be a novelty. In my opinion, nothing could be further from the truth. Internationally, he is now lauded on the world stage, with a barrage of collaborations under his belt, even from major studios like Paramount+ keen to explore a culinary synergy with their series like Yellowjackets.
To achieve ten years in Hospitality is no mean feat, with an absurdly high number of Restaurants not surviving the first year. It’s even harder when you’re are an independent, when over that period of time there was both a significant financial crisis and COVID. It’s also very easy to forget what a substantial body of work that has been achieved to date, and to also ponder the potential of what still lays ahead. By way of example, how far ahead of its time in 2015 was the Tomato Marshmallow (pictured above)? The brave juxtaposition of a liquid savoury component within a traditional dessert concept, would have blown diner’s minds when the sheer clarity of flavour exploded upon their palates. Also, consider the boldness and artistry of the presentation from a British ex-pat looking to make his mark in the shark pool of Sydney dining.
Move ahead to 2018, and who else could turn a bread course into a theatrical event like Tin Can Bread! Just to assemble the prop that is essential to its existence is the work of a brilliant mind. Creativity like this explains why his retention of staff is so impressive – who could possibly get bored with this level of exploration and challenge? Consider also, that he not only has to express that over the entire degustation, but one that largely changes every eight weeks. Its the equivalent of being a Great British Menu contestant for ten years, with the dining public expecting nothing less than a rabbit pulled from his hat every single time.
Tandoori Kingfish (2019) has had may iterations, but the freshness of the cucumber, smoked yoghurt and lobster crumb as a combination is pure genius. To integrate so many styles, textures and flavours in many ways showcases the philosophy behind NEL. When you dine here, forget beige, its about opening your mind to enjoy the culinary ride. It’s a memorable one at that. Let’s also not forget the multiplicity of the ceramics, stones, boxes and props that accompany each beautifully crafted dish. How the dishy copes with this unique inventory of vessels is beyond me, not to mention the foraging and assembly of garnishes which blows my mind. The logistics that underpins this must be mammoth, not to mention the Sommeliers job of matching the wine so astutely. Front of House also have to intimately understand every component on each course.
Pea and Ham Soup from 2020, remains one of my favourites, as its a playful nod by Nelly to his heritage. The flavours and textures evoke a modernity from such a much loved and traditional dish that has long been a staple in that countries culinary past. To reinvent those classics whilst still triggering the sense memory that takes people back to a specific time and place is indeed a gift not bestowed upon many. Even great authors and artists throughout history have suffered from creative block or fatigue, but at NEL if anything, momentum is building towards more bold undertakings like a Degustation To Die For: Yellowjackets, or being part of a movie like The Menu – only surviving to tell the tale.
Most exceptional Chefs and Restaurants are judged by the quality and longevity of their narrative. Here are some of the themed highlights from the ten years:
Once Upon a time (chapters 1-4)
Great British Menu
The Story of Christmas
Land & Sea
A Trip to Broadway
Native Australia
Another feature has been the encyclopedia of ingredients used, especially native ingredients that have promoted the exciting evolution of Australian Cuisine to a broader audience when collaborating on the International stage, and with high profile visiting Chefs who have a fascination with what is available locally.
Having recently undergone a renovation, NEL is preparing itself for another ten years, whilst also establishing a gastropub venture like Winstons at the Nag’s Head Hotel, with more collaborations on the International stage to follow. I believe Chef Nelly Robinson is a brilliant culinary mind whose gaze is always set upon the invisible horizon, and to anyone who has not yet experienced it, you owe it to yourselves to try it at least once. When you compare the cost of its 12 course degustation to the big end of town, it represents great value, along with a level of creativity and narrative that you cannot put a price on. Thank you Chef Nelly Robinson and your team for ten years of inspired dishes that always leave me wondering, how on earth did they come up with that?
Bravo!
By Dane Richards
Nel Restaurant
(02) 9212 2206
75 Wentworth Avenue Sydney, NSW, 2000
http://www.nelrestaurant.com.au
