It had been far too long between visits, and after accepting an invitation to attend a Woodford Reserve Tasting, I was instantly wowed by the flavour and textural profiles of the canapés for that event, especially since it was being matched to an extensive range of Bourbon Whiskey’s. As it turns out, Owner Michael Moore had more than done his due diligence with the appointment of Head Chef Jason Dean (ex Gastro Park, est.) when I returned for a more comprehensive review of his skillset. Some critics may let perceptions of revolving restaurants distract them, but the primary job is to simply focus on the plate and the whole experience that surrounds it, and it is exceptional.
After taking in the stunning pink hues of the last light and the Sydney skyline with a well-crafted Woodford Reserve Old Fashioned, we start off with a pair of sexy oscietra caviar lavishly garnished potato cakes, accompanied with a side of horseradish. Like the setting, gobsmackingly good. Likewise, the divine mozzarella milk buns with Ibérico jamón and the duck and pistachio mortadella with shaved foie gras and chicken fat brioche, deliver that wow factor. The indulgence could end here, and I would leave very content indeed. Fortunately, it does not. I should also mention the handmade donut shaped caponata bread with cultured Coppertree Farm salted butter, was also very more-ish. We are off to a flying start, 47 levels up, removed from the hustle and bustle below.
At this point, over some freshly shucked East 33 Sydney Rocks with white balsamic & chive mignonette, one ponders can this high standard be possibly maintained. The rock lobster arancini sitting atop a shot glass of delectable bisque quickly dismisses any of those doubts. Another winner, like the lights of the city, that resonate just as deeply. Similarly, scorched sashimi kingfish with smoked dashi tofu, pickled celery, apple and elderflower ponzu is an elegant masterclass of textures and cohesively balanced flavours. The best Chefs in my experience have gears, and a lightness of touch, and that is clearly evident here. Tonight we are also in the hands of Head Sommelier Alexis Maton, and his pairings are absolutely on point, as is the service under the watchful eye of Restaurant Manager Eleonora Esposito. Its hard not to notice how impeccably attired every single member of the Front of House is – the maxim holding true that the collective sum of a Restaurant’s detail, ultimately informs the bigger picture.
The astutely baked Murray cod and spanner crab royale with organic grilled zucchini, society garlic and herb sauce is a lovely piece of fish cookery as a prelude to the heavier protein to follow. Matched with a 2022 Warramate Chardonnay, the lively acidity of this cooler Yarra Valley vintage works beautifully with the elements of this dish. You know its time to get serious when a large format bottle of 2022 Struie Shiraz arrives for the perfectly executed Black Opak beef rib and loin ms 6+ claypot braise and black salt brine, roasted cauliflower verde, and smoked soubise. These big savoury flavours that cry out for the Barossa in the glass, are immediately harmonised on first tasting.
When you have come this far, at this level of delivery, its hard not to be rooting for the pastry section to bring home desserts in style as a fitting conclusion. They don’t disappoint with a textbook Valrhona hot chocolate soufflé – perfectly risen with Araguani 100% cocoa, and bourbon vanilla double cream ticking all the boxes. It’s rich, light, and delicious. We can’t say no to the vibrant new season mango, lime and coconut pudding that follows with mango and passionfruit salad, coconut sorbet, sponge and snow that cleanses the palate after a night of particularly decadent dining. My dining partner Brian Steel, also a very experienced reviewer, arrives at the same score outcome – this was undeniably an exceptional meal that showcased the technical elements and delivery of a very serious and accomplished restaurant, whether it revolves or not. The stellar view as it happens tonight was a bonus, as our focus rarely left the plate.
We depart not just with fond memories, but with stylishly presented boxes of handmade Valrhona chocolates (dark chocolate & caramel truffles, milk chocolate honeycomb gold). Its a classy touch for an equally classy meal. Owner Michael Moore at O Bar and Dining doesn’t do things in halves – its unapologetically a big night out in the best city in the world, and it delivers spectacularly as soon as the lift doors open on Level 47 of Harry Seidler’s iconic Australia Square. I’ll leave the last word to Head Chef Jason Dean, “For me, Australian food is all about seasonality, this country is full of great farmers and producers committed to supplying the best seasonal ingredients, ranging from fresh black truffles from the Southern highlands, to locally caught live rock lobsters. At O Bar and Dining, we try to showcase the best of Australia on a plate.”
Amen to that, I say.
By Dane Richards
O Bar and Dining
Monday to Sunday from 5pm, Wednesday to Saturday from 12pm
0292479777
Australia Square, level 47/264 George St, Sydney NSW 2000
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