Sala Dining part of the Dedes Waterfront Group, located on the Jones Bay Wharf in Pyrmont, is a stylish celebration of Italian cuisine and conviviality with Industry heavyweight Chef Owner Danny Russo and Executive Chef Michael Lewis at the helm. Its a heady mix of demographics that fill the room, and Russo works it like a maestro, with genuine warmth, showing respect to every patron. Sala roughly translates to room, and he certainly welcomes you into his, one that sumptuously shares Sydney Harbour and Bridge views, whether by day or night.
Stefano Satta leads the Front of House team, whose professional pride in their attire and appearance, fits the venue like a glove to his vision. The service hits the right mark, attentive yet not pretentious, or intrusive at anytime. The à la carte menu is extensive, and I don’t think overpriced, in context of both the waterside location and execution of its delivery. Sala Dining can be either special occasion or a relaxed smart casual dining experience – its entirely up to you. The vibe on this Sunday lunch is leaning to the latter, with the service intuitively reading the room and loosening without ever compromising their standards.
Our group decide to share the dishes, and it becomes a memorable journey through regional Italian cuisine, starting with generous complimentary plates of house made bread, grissini and EVOO. We follow with the more Mediterranean style gildas of marbled Tajima wagyu bresaola astutely counterpointed with Sicilian olives and pickled guindilla peppers. The fresh crudo selection seems obvious, featuring kingfish, tuna, scallops and coral trout from the raw bar that greets you upon entering. It sings with the Chablis chosen from the impressive and extensive wine list curated by Sommelier Rocco Pezzullo.
We were slightly at odds with the colatura aioli served with the more-ish monk fish popcorn, however the delightful mini toasted crumpets with consorcio anchovies and egg yolk sauce and potato scallops with Yarra Valley trout roe deliver instant redemption. Likewise the battered pumpkin flowers and tomato salsa were equally savoured by all. The Yellow fin tuna mantecato in squid ink bignè with boretane onion and green olive was like a textural masterclass in a mouthful. Our attention turns to the stunning signature squid ink tortellini filled with crab meat, roast lemon and caper sauce. Its a triumphant dish that is a symphony of flavour, technique and texture on one plate. Bravo!
The orecchiette with wild boar, red wine ragu and stracciatella has a hard act to follow, however the deep savoury notes do set the tone nicely for the mains. By way of example the punchy puttanesca with the dry aged swordfish steak is a stunning counterpoint that works cohesively. Sala runs its own dry ageing program for seafood, and is worth asking about, to fully understand the commitment involved. Fish of the day, on this occasion Murray cod, is textbook in execution and served with Pugliese EVOO and lemon. Delicious. The generous New Zealand pink snapper fillet with Sicilian green olives similarly delivers on its promise.
Whilst predominately focused on the seafood, we switch to the land to mix it up, with a couple of 350 gram sliced Berkshire pork cutlets with Zoe’s pickled London pippin apples, marjoram and jus, and it proves to be a wise choice. Sides of baby kipfler potatoes with preserved lemon, seasonal Ramarro Farm leaf salad and radish showcase the same duty of care. If you still have room, Desserts range from buffalo ricotta cheese cake, Cacao Barry ‘Inaya’ chocolate tart to rum baba and a selection of gelato. And don’t leave without trying the house Limoncello, its a bit special.
I have reviewed a series of restaurants over the years that Danny Russo has successfully consulted into and setup, however it’s nice to see that he has chosen to make Sala Dining home to share his ‘living room’ for all of us to enjoy. His luminous personality adds that intangible that only a true understanding of hospitality can deliver. What is clearly evident, is that he has chosen to mentor and surround himself with a group of likeminded hospitality professionals that form a dynamic team who are all on the same page. It shows on the plate, and envelops the overall experience as one you want to return to sooner rather than later.
By Dane Richards
Sala Dining
Wednesday to Saturday 12-10pm, Sunday 12 to 4pm
(02) 91672921
End of Jones Bay Wharf (Lower Deck), 26-32 Pirrama Rd, Pyrmont, 2009, NSW
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