There are some Head Chef appointments which you know will make a difference. Luke Davenport’s at Franca was one of those. His stellar CV includes training under Rene Redzepi at Noma in Copenhagen, and Brett Graham at The Ledbury, giving him exposure to Michelin starred Restaurant experience. Executive Chef José Saulog of the Rivage Hospitality Group, that also includes Parlar, Armorica and the newly opened Pelicano, has given Davenport the necessary autonomy to express himself and his skillset on the plate, and it shows. However, most importantly the synergy between them has provided immediate results for their diners.
“I believe in letting the ingredients speak for themselves with minimal manipulation to highlight their natural flavours and characteristics”, says Davenport. The key is he does that with a duty of care, like the exquisitely constructed chicken liver parfait and hazelnut praline wafer, effectively a rich savoury mille-feuille that delivers both style and substance. Similarly, the torched hokkaido scallop with chicken skin, emulsion and caviar is an equally lush mouthful which sets the tone for the evening. In many ways these snacks are a statement of his contemporary take on French cuisine, which is equally innovative and respectful.
The beautifully presented hiramasa kingfish that follows, with whipped cod roe and hazelnuts is a showcase of sublimely layered textures with the requisite acidity to balance the dish. Having tried the pan fried gnocchi with mushrooms, goat’s cheese, and sage on a previous visit we instead opt for the caramelle à la meunière with spanner crab. The delicacy of the pasta filling is a perfect foil for the lightly browned butter sauce demonstrating a lightness of touch synonymous with progressive Chefs.
The cuisine at Franca is supplemented by a stylish leather bound wine list with both big hitters and serious back vintages for those so inclined, however importantly there are still wines accessible at decent price points, and some hidden gems to be found. The cocktail program is particularly strong, and the beverage knowledge on the floor is informed and considered with their suggestions and delivery. The fact that Henschke recently held their Barossa Legacy Dinner here recently speaks volumes, and having attended it, the myriads of stemware and seamless wine service was handled impressively.
One of the new Spring menu additions lamb backstrap with rib, spring vegetables, and lamb jus does not disappoint. It is vibrant and joyful dish, well-executed with a serious depth of flavour. Likewise the “Pot-au-Feu” of flavoursome short rib with more-ish potato rösti, spring vegetables and bone marrow is nearly enough protein to contemplate skipping dessert. However, having had the flawless Valrhona chocolate soufflé with Madagascar vanilla ice cream on two occasions, the 15 to 17 minute interlude whilst it is cooks allows you time to perhaps try the modern take on a mille-feuille, with vanilla custard, blackberry, and rosemary ice cream. Absolutely delicious.
Whilst it celebrated its fifth anniversary this year, I sense Franca has now found its true identity, with the right people in the right places. It is striking the right balance between a Restaurant with ambition, whilst offering diversity to its demographic, whether that be a Supper Club, Spring brunch, live jazz, happy hours or long lunches. The key is that it can transition between them whilst delivering the food, beverage and front of house service delivery consistently and without compromise. That is easier said than done, however the Rivage Hospitality Group find ways to make it work. Flexibility is the currency for success in these challenging times, and Franca is your playground to explore.
By Dane Richards
Franca
Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm
(02) 91672921
Shop 2/81 MacLeay Street, Potts Point NSW 2011
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