The roll call of past Chefs at NOUR is impressive to say the least (Roy Ner and Paul Farag), and that legacy is set to continue with new Head Chef Ibrahim Kasif (ex Stanbuli). He had been running recruitment for the Esca Group until Co-Founder Ibby Moubadder pleaded and convinced him to get back on the burners. Thank God for that, as he is far too talented to be elsewhere with his impressive skillset. This Chef implicitly understands balance, flavour, seasoning, texture, acidity and restraint – and is creative to boot. It heralds a new chapter for this much loved Middle Eastern Restaurant, and I for one can’t wait to see its evolution under this Chef in the next six to twelve months.
Rather fittingly we start the evening with a Arak Orchard Highball, a delightfully refreshing cocktail that cleanses and stimulates the palate for sumptuous feast that follows. The tone is perfectly set with plump wood-fired mussels served in their shells and filled with fragrant pine nut rice, with chicken fat butter just in case you missed the point. You will be very well dined and wined at NOUR, so worry about the gym another time! Likewise, the charcoal kissed octopus skewers with parsley dressing garnish, and more-ish whipped roe emulsion is truly heavenly. Next is a classy and modern take on Batata harra, a cylinder of crispy potato topped with a velvety toum and fermented chilli. Absolutely delicious.
Always a failsafe barometer of any very good restaurant, are both the conviviality and joy it brings, and Nour is filled to the brim with both tonight. The Front of House is totally on point, and the food is moving nicely at the peak of service with a near full capacity. A tabbouleh with raw Kingfish and horseradish cacik is fully concealed under two large sesame leaves, and is designed to be eaten with your fingers like a san chow bow. Its followed by beef nayyeh (a Levantine tartare of sorts without the egg), texturally bound with chilli oil and bulgur, and topped with Oyster cream and Giaveri caviar. Both hit the mark, and signal the transition from this mezze style phase to the larger shared mains.
Spices (cinnamon, cloves and cardamon, star anise, clove) abound with the baharat roasted dry aged half duck mishwe, finished with a beautifully balanced Ottoman quince sauce. Even leftovers the next day are as enjoyable as the dish tonight. I swap places and order the woodfired mushrooms, with burnt leak and walnut muhammara from a Vegetarians perspective, and its equally joyful. Mission accomplished and its back to a triumph of impossibly tender lamb neck with a rich bread and ‘Iskander’ sauce garnished with yoghurt. The mountain salad with green olives, pomegranates, walnuts and pistachio is welcomed in a cameo type role, as I leave just enough room for the tahini parfait, which my dining partner enjoys so much, that she orders another. I concede in glorious defeat!
NOUR has stood the test of time as it guarantees you a memorable experience that you can bet your life on. It also delivers intangible dining pleasure and hospitality that is entirely genuine and done so in difficult economic times when diners no longer have the privilege of rolling the dice and leaving disappointed. This won’t ever happen here, as its simply not in the Esca Group’s DNA. The times I have heard them speak, it is with passion and intent for what they want to deliver to the diner. The notable humility of the Chef emphasises that philosophy in conversation with him afterwards, and I walk away confident that Nour will continue to shine as brightly as it always has, and perhaps even just that little more.
By Dane Richards
NOUR
Monday to Saturday from 5.30pm, Sunday from 5pm, Thursday to Sunday from 12pm
(02) 93313413
3/490 Crown Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010
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