One of the pleasures of reviewing restaurants, is having no preconception of the experience you are about to undertake. For a range of reasons, mostly due to the number of new openings, you may miss that opportunity to catch a potential gem in its formative months. The benefit however is allowing the Restaurant proper time to find its feet. Nico located on The North Shore is one such example. It has exceeded expectations for what its humble aspiration is stated to be, and its unclear where its penultimate ceiling might be. That largely rests solely upon the shoulders of impressive Executive Chef Nicola Ronconi and effervescent General Manager Ewa Witkowska whose concept to evoke the joy of a vacation on the Italian coastline exactly hits the right note. Judging by the almost full room on a Tuesday night in the Cammeray Square food precinct, the future looks just as bright.
What is apparent as you first walk in, is that the cocktail game is particularly strong. The ample bar seating readily allows for just a snack and drinks experience, but I sense the locals prefer a more lingering convivial get together, and who can blame them. Service is warm, professional and sharp, yet never intrusive. The spacious room that faces the large open kitchen still feels somewhat intimate, even with the tables nicely spaced along the eye catching banquette. The kitchen brigade in full view are notably in the zone, so you rarely hear the dockets being overtly called, with a rare gentle hand clap sufficient as the dishes hit the pass.
We start with the nicely warmed house-made focaccia – it’s more-ish, especially with the divinely smoked butter. I am tempted to order more but refrain, and that decision proves wise given the generous portion sizes. Chef sends his Sicilian cannolo unanounced, and I can instantly understand why. Its textural, well-balanced, with just the right level of acidity, piquancy, and tanginess from the salmon and flying fish roe filling. Similarly, the exquisitely presented Hokkaido scallop carpaccio, with pickled fennel, orange, and finger lime is just as astutely judged, not to mention how it vibrantly zings across the palate.
The elongated Tiger prawn cigars didn’t entirely win me over on this occasion, but in fairness they would be a totally different proposition as a bar snack, where the context and judgments are not as finely attuned. Conversely, the plump Zucchini flowers, filled with a surprisingly gratifying plant based ricotta, and dabbed with sweet chilli can stay right on my table! Absolutely delicious, and fried to perfection, with the initial bite giving way to a memorable oozy and unctuous center.
Octopus in my opinion remains a good test of a Chef’s skillset, especially with the myriad of techniques available to prep it. Sourced from Fremantle, this impossibly tender example served on a base of Buffalo yoghurt, with nduja and baby peppers is absolute redemption for the all the other avoidable disasters I have been subjected to elsewhere over time – way too often for my liking! But apart from the noteworthy execution, its the total harmony on the plate that seals the deal. Fittingly a particularly dreamy smoked mafaldine follows, with wild mushrooms, and Taleggio fonduta – ticking off their considerable pasta credentials in one delirious swoop.
Arriving at mains, a generous pork cotoletta, lavished with a punchy Calabrian sauce and garnished with Parmesan hits the mark. Equally, the side of irresistible crispy potatoes, with honey and Pecorino disappears rapidly along with it – and wisely we are offered a timeout before dessert. Snickers, a household chocolate bar that was elevated to new heights by pastry Queen Philippa Sibley with her much-loved restaurant take, sets the bar very high in anticipation. Visually constructed differently under a textural basket, it delivers on its promise with a composite of all the familiar flavour profiles that resonate with the commercial bar, just in a far more sophisticated way.
Finishing with the irresistible signature lemon tiramusi is obligatory, and tonight it also serves as a tangy and cleansing counterpoint to the richness of the Snickers. It is a refreshingly innovative take on a classic that we thought we had seen every iteration of until now. It is just one of the reasons I will be keeping a close watch on Nico, as I suspect this restaurant and its Chef will continue to evolve, and I for one most assuredly want to be part of where that journey takes us. However, for the moment with a wet Winter setting in, the culinary warmth of the Italian coastline, works just fine for me.
By Dane Richards
Nico
Cammeray Square
Friday to Saturday 12pm to 3pm (Lunch)
Monday to Saturday 5.30pm to late (Dinner)
0280210009
18/450 Miller Street, Cammeray NSW 2062
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