de Vine Food and Wine recently celebrated its 21st year, and during that period a multitude of food trends have come and gone. Somewhere along the way, the industry in chasing those foams, molecular and deconstruction pursuits, forgot one of the most important functions of a Restaurant is to feed people well. de Vine over that period of time could never be accused of that, and my last two or three visits have been like a well-needed warm hug. The irony is that dining since COVID has inadvertently triggered a correction of sorts back to flavour and more produce driven dishes.
Recently owners Anthony and Julian Izzillo (ex Wildfire) have taken the opportunity to do some renovations, whilst not altering the overall ambience that originally attracted and built their loyal following. Whilst most of the changes are subtle and sophisticated tweaks ranging from carpets, fittings and chairs, the new new green velvet banquettes are pretty sexy in a dining room that had long won me over. The lines between the main dining space and the wine bar are less blurred, and the 250 bottle Amaro collection (the largest in The Southern Hemisphere) remains pride of place in the Wine Bar in homage of this bittersweet herbal Italian liqueur. Its a passion of the brothers, just ask a question on your next visit, and it will become obvious how deep that runs.
Chef Tim Fisher (ex Osteria Lucio) runs an impressive operation to both spaces, and walking past during the peak of service reminded me of that beautiful scene in the movie Dinner Rush with flame, the sound of pans, and the blurred activity of movement a beautiful moment to behold. Importantly, there are no smoke and mirrors on the plate. It is honest flavoursome food prepared with integrity, generously portioned and seasoned to edge, where the professionals dare to dance over home cooks.
The house made foccacia could have benefitted from some warmth, however the obvious quality and EVVO made that more of a preferential situation. No such delimma with the well crumbed lamb neck fritti garnished with pickled cucumber and served with a particularly more-ish aioli. I could have finished a dozen, such was the depth of flavour and texture. Similarly, the rustic beef and pork Polpette (meatballs) that followed, in a rich puttanesca and garnished with Parmesan, is quintessential de vine fare. Mopped up with remaining foccacia and matched with a glass of hearty red, and what more could you want on this rather wet night in Sydney.
Keeping that theme going, the plump and fluffy gnocchi with pork neck ragu and Pecorino Romano is a very generous portion that could easily be shared by two as a meal alone. It eats as well as it reads, and is sure to be a crowd pleaser. For me though, the perfectly deboned and butterflied spatchcock, garnished with sage, steals the show. The skin is crisped beautifully, and the texture is delightful. Served with cannellini beans and guanciale – it just leaves you to squeeze some lemon and run it through the jus for a memorable dish.
Desserts are only present a challenge with what has been enjoyed before, however a little break will have you primed for the very large and textural cannoli featuring ricotta, chocolate, orange and pistachio. The rich torta (cake) with Queen garnet plum, flaky almonds and a dallop of crème fraîche will have you calling stumps for the night particularly content. With amaro the fitting digestif to conclude, don’t be bashful to ask for help given the magnitude of their offering!
Whether you just pop by for a drink in the front Wine Bar for a quick meal and glass of wine, or for the full experience in the charming dining room, de Vine will greet you with the same genuine hospitality that has ended up as their trademark. To last 21 years in the Shark pool of Sydney dining is no mean feat, and as I look around a full room, I only hear the laughter and see the smiles of the happy diners that surround me. Mission accomplished.
By Dane Richards
de vine Food and Wine
Monday to Wednesday 11.45am to 10.30pm
Thursday to Friday 11.45am to 11pm, Saturday 4.30pm to 11pm, Sunday (closed)
02 9262 6906
32 Market St, Sydney NSW 2000
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