It is far too easy to approach restaurants with pre-conceptions based on location or their culinary style, and Me-Gal is the perfect example. That it is located within the Taronga Zoo precinct is a unique feature, and certainly not a gimmick, and it is not just the breathtakingly beautiful view back to the Sydney skyline that seals the deal. More importantly its what’s on the plate, and the overall experience that wraps around it. Talented German raised Chef Philipp Kamlade (ex Public Dining Room & Shangri-La Hotel) is more than ably supported by experienced Front of House Manager Tony Schultz, who runs the room with a very pleasant professionalism that fits the venue like a glove. The icing on the cake is the concise and thoughtful wine list overseen by Group Sommelier Louella Matthews, completing a Trippas White Group A-list, that delivers on its promise.
Starting with sunset cocktails from the the playfully named cocktail list is almost obligatory, as you need time to properly kick back and soak in the stunning surroundings. The Squawky Cauldron and Night Owls are most certainly cocktail birds of a different feather, but notably well executed, with the Archie Rose ‘Frank the cock-a-tail mug’ so unique, souvenir hunters have only left eight behind! By way of background, the impressive Wildlife Retreat at Taronga was completed in 2019 by Taylor Construction as part of the Zoo’s Centenary Revitalisation Plan, and the Me-Gal dining space integrates beautifully into its picturesque surrounds, using native ingredients cohesively in a nod to its sites heritage. Me-Gal, is named after the Cammeraigal word for ‘tears’ and evokes the saltwater of the surrounding harbourside shoreline.
We start with the lovely textural and elegantly plated raw scallops with pomelo, radicchio, ponzu and karkalla. The dish has just the right level of acidity to not detract from the natural sweetness of the scallop, and it signals early on that we have a Chef onboard with very good judgment and an understanding of balance. Similarly, the flavoursome Berkshire pork belly from Byron Bay, garnished with brussels sprouts, kimchi and apple purée, delivers its elements in a very meaningful way.
The sustainable Murray River cod from the Riverina is textbook fish cookery, which in my opinion defines the quality of a Chef. It is accompanied by mustard leaves, fennel, and a subtle dashi that harmoniously dances with the impossibly textured seafood that is just a delight to eat, counterpointed with evenly crispy skin. I debated ordering the 1kg butterflied whole chicken (to be shared between two or three), with Geraldton wax, chestnut, and pickled muntries – however it was a choice rewarded by being the best chicken dish I have enjoyed in recent memory. It reminded me of what chicken used to taste like as part of my childhood, and the side of crunchy duck fat chat potatoes, with marjoram just made it an entirely more-ish dish to eat.
To be honest, I would have been content to have ended on that note, but the citrus lemon dessert appealed as the perfect palate cleanser. The tartness of deconstructed lemon namelaka of sunrise lime streusel, yuzu, and passion fruit cream did not disappoint in achieving exactly that. It is in direct contrast to the far richer Chocolate Valrhona Dulcy stones with apricot gelée, wattle seeds, and matcha sponge. What impresses me, is this is day one of the new Autumn menu and every dish is on point in delivery under the pressure of a full room that included three large tables.
Since I visited, Tony Panetta has been recently appointed as Group Executive Chef, and Me-Gal which already has huge upside, is perfectly poised to benefit and take that next step under his sage tutelage. This is already a very good restaurant, which not only has over sixty rooms accommodation adjacent, but is also very accessible to locals who clearly have already taken a shine to it. With ample parking and public transport (bus and ferry), you do not need to wait for an overdue Zoo visit to enjoy this immersive dining experience that will take your breath away!
By Dane Richards
Pro Tip: For date nights, book ahead and ask for table 50!
Me-Gal
Enter via the Taronga Wildlife Retreat
Thursday to Sunday (Lunch)
Monday to Sunday (Dinner)
0280237636
2A Bradleys Head Road, Mosman NSW 2088
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Main Image credit: Taylor Construction
