The history of Din Tai Fung dates all the way back to 1972 with a humble stall in Taipei. Some 52 years on, its become a global brand, opening its first restaurant in Australia in 2008, and subsequently has ten venues in both Sydney and Melbourne. The key to their success has been the consistency of their pork dumplings, all hand made between precisely 4.8 and 5.2 grams at conception, before being filled to weigh between 20.8 and 21.2 grams. However, do not underestimate them as just a dumpling house, as their expansive menu showcases significant flavour and textural profiles that are now synonymous with the quality associated with their brand.
Originally, my visit was planned to coincide with Lunar New Year, with it being the Year of the Dragon, it was a perfect opportunity to try their cute and rather novel chocolate sea salt dragon buns. Think the sublime texture of a chocolate fondant, all exploding in one mouthful, and that gives you an idea of the technical skill underpinning all the theatre and aesthetics. I decide to pass on the fifteen ingredient prosperity salad on this occasion, opting to do a deeper dive into the regular menu to fully explore their food philosophy.
We start with the spicy shrimp and pork wontons, which proves to be an excellent choice. The tempestuous sauce that accompanies it lights up the palate, and is an excellent counterpoint to synergy of the two feature components. It’s a popular dish, heading out to many tables around us, and it’s not hard to see why. Similarly, the lovely textural pork buns with very more-ish interior can either be enjoyed as is, or dipped in some chilli to raise the heat volume if you so desire. No judgment, they are simply delicious either way.
I have to try the crispy golden prawn pancakes, with the compressed texture and flavours working a treat. It’s a paradox of rich, yet being light – which works perfectly ahead of the more substantial dishes to follow. Speaking of which, I allow the chicken dumplings with a divine soupy broth to cool a fraction, so I can fully savour the comforting taste (once bitten twice shy, after diving in too quickly on way too many previous occasions).
One of the signature dishes, stir fried Kung Pao chicken with noodles and cashew nuts is mandatory (with or without the noodles). It is everything joyful about this style of cuisine, and like others, you will find yourself smiling as you devour this dish – its that gratifying. If you don’t like this dish – well there may not be hope for you! The honey pepper beef that follows is solid enough in its immediate shadow, tender and sticky, and I find the steamed rice a nice enough accompaniment, but you have ten rice options – so you can choose your preference whether that be simple or fancy.
Din Tai Fung knows it strengths, and plays to them. Its diners know what they get every single time – and its that promise of assured delivery that sees a full room on a Tuesday night. Its vibrant, a flurry of sounds and movement – including a service robot that is part of the overall show. What is most mesmerising to me though, is watching the brigade of purposeful dumpling chefs going about their trade, taking pride in their artisan skill that dates back to 200 A.D. Sure they have some modern toys to assist, but at heart they signify a homage to ancient values that still has relevance today.
By Dane Richards
Din Tai Fung (World Square)
Monday to Sunday 11.30am to 2pm (Lunch)
Monday to Wednesday 5.30pm to 8pm, Thursday to Saturday 5.30pm to 8.30pm, Sunday 5pm to 8pm (Dinner)
02 9261 0219
Shop 11.04, Level 1/644 George St, Sydney NSW 2000
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