Niche Mosman is many things to many people. In the morning it opens early as a bustling Neighbourhood café to the Village, offering a healthy styled breakfast menu that covers all the bases. It then transitions into Bistro mode with its all day menu with extensive brunch and lunch options, before settling into a Restaurant quality offering at night. The fact it does all three well, lets both locals and visitors decide how it fits their needs on any given day. I choose dinner service on this occasion, and order a refreshing French 75 cocktail to leave behind the day’s baggage – and it achieves exactly that!
We start with a particularly more-ish mud crab and prawn menbosha (toast) with wasabi mayo. Its portion size represents great value at $15, especially given the lush ingredients, with the seeded caramelised exterior counterpointed nicely by the soft texture of the seafood. The flavour construct of the two Chicken fajitas that follow with slaw, roasted pepper mayo, coriander and eschalots appeals, as does the categorisations of the evening menu that let you mix and match cuisine styles, without ever losing its way (or the diner).
The vibrant looking Hiramasa kingfish ceviche with Nikkei, yuzu, ponzu, scallion, and garnished with crispy kumera on the side, is a lovely fusion of flavours with an astutely judged level of acidity. The uniqueness and quality of this dish instantly wins me over – as being in the hands of a serious kitchen that is both versatile and innovative. Three large South Australia King Prawns with gremolata further confirms the level of seafood selection and provenance, making the later selection of Mooloolaba swordfish a relatively easy choice. Momentarily changing tack to pasta, and the generous bowl of al-dente Fusilloni with vodka sauce, punchy Korean gochujjang, and Parmigiano Reggiano is a nice change-up combination that works.
For my palate, the combination of brown butter, capers, and parsley plays beautifully with the abovementioned roasted swordfish when it arrives. Like all the dishes, its a generous portion especially given the rising cost of protein, and is priced very much in your favour at $32. Similarly, the well-executed 300g Angus Reserve Picanha steak, with chimichurri, and French fries is an absolute steal as mains everywhere of this quality are soaring regularly well above $50. The predominately minimal intervention wine list also offers value, with BYO wine available as another option.
Just when I thought my waistline and Tiramisu had long since parted ways, along comes this particularly wicked take, which ticks all my guilty boxes and has me reconciled with this much loved classic. I love shouting out independent owners, and Niche Mosman gives me more reasons to do so. It is priced in the diners favour, provides a genuine duty of care, and is a small multi-faceted Hospitality venue punching way above its weight that is well worth a visit. Apart from which, the food is uncomplicated and delicious, the service is unpretentious, and its located in a particularly lovely part of the world. What more could anyone want!
By Dane Richards
Niche Mosman
Monday to Sunday 6.30am to 3.30pm (Breakfast and Lunch)
Thursday to Saturday 5pm to 10pm (Dinner)
0447 117 777
5/713-715 Military Rd, Mosman NSW 2088
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Image credits (title and steak): Katje Ford
