First opening in Balmain in 2012 under Chef Jane Sangpoowong with the concept to showcase contemporary Northern Thai Cuisine using Australian produce – and do so with a duty of care. It has subsequently expanded to Barangaroo (2022) and South Eveleigh (2021), and plans are afoot to open another. Making it through COVID, only emphasised the importance of takeaway, and the line-up during lunch service speaks volume of the quality that is triggering the repeat custom. Dining habits post pandemic have changed, and Pepper Seeds caters for their preference. The other very noticeable aspect is just how polite everyone in their operation is – which is the first building block of Hospitality.
Its a balmy night in South Eveleigh, which conjures up Chiang Mai, very much part of its chosen inspiration. The smells and sounds as you enter evoke the promise of an authentic experience, and the team here are passionate to engage about their heritage and philosophy. The beverage prices are outrageously priced in the diners favour, and $12 cocktails during happy hour between 5.30-6.30pm only amplify that. The 2022 Hewitson Gun Metal Riesling from Eden Valley, which matches up nicely to the style of food is only $39, in fact no wine on the list exceeds $40. Tell me where you will find that in Sydney and surrounds, and if you decide on BYO, corkage is only $4 per person! In these economic times, that represents outstanding value.
We start with Tangy prawns, featuring a tamarind blend sauce, its both sweet and sour as the menu suggests. Speaking of which, the menu is presented in the form of a news broadsheet named the Pepper Seeds times – just playfully adding to the experience, sharing both stories and dishes. Following up with marinated satay chicken skewers with a side bowl of crunch peanut sauce pays dividends. Take the tip and order a couple of roti’s up front, as any sauce, curry or paste did not return to the kitchen on my watch – they are simply too delicious to pass up on. The textural Nam Prik Ong, a deeply layered Northern chilli paste (made with ground chicken and tomatoes) case in point can be devoured with the more-ish roti, or the crispy sesame rice paper rolls – perhaps both.
I simply couldn’t pass by the Hung Lay curry, a staple dish of Northern Thailand. The sauce is so deeply layered with spicing, herbs, ginger and peanuts that it is the darkest of colours – with the permeating aromatics next level. The ceremonial presentation is served in brass bowl sitting atop a candle to keep its residual warmth, with the chilli level moderate. This allows the complexity and spectrum of sweet, sour and salty flavours to shine through – encapsulating the harmony of balance that is the joy and cornerstone of this wonderful cuisine.
Whilst fast approaching an “elegant sufficiency” from the generous portions, I am glad we ordered the Gang Nang Loy, another traditional dish of chicken stuffed grilled banana peppers with a dreamy composite creamy curry sauce that really floats my boat. There is a level of consistency with Pepper Seeds, both in terms of its food and service delivery that immediately appeals to me – and there is a generational backstory tracing back to owners grandfather’s century-old restaurant in Sam Chuk, Suphanburi, Northern Thailand that one senses resonates deeply within in all the dishes. Heart and soul cannot be fabricated, it solely exists within those willing to share their own – and that embraces you like a big warm hug at Pepper Seeds.
By Dane Richards
Pepper Seeds – Boutique Thai Bites (South Eveleigh)
Mon to Fri 11am to 3pm (BYO Wine Only and also License)
Mon to Sat 5.30pm to 10pm
02 93103083
Shop 4, 1 Locomotive Street Eveleigh NSW 2015
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Balmain
Sun to Thu 5.30pm to 9pm, Fri to Sat 5.30pm to 10pm (BYO Wine Only and also License)
Barangaroo
Mon to Fri 10.30am to 2.30pm (No License)
