Location, Location. This was a prime CBD venue crying out for some TLC, and the new Sydney based hospitality group, Sunday Co. has provided exactly that without diverting too far from the DNA established at this site. Renowned previously for its impressively comprehensive Oyster selection, that remains an ongoing commitment, with everything shucked freshly to order. However, more noticeably the beef program has been ramped up by Group Culinary Director, David Clarke with the introduction of a Montague Broiler. Reaching temperatures of up to 800° its allows precision texture, with minimal moisture loss, regardless of volumes experienced at the peak of service. More about that later.
The bar aspect of the operation, which shares the room with the restaurant has never been stronger, and the incredible value at happy hour between 4-6pm on weekdays is clearly a huge drawcard in this big end of town. $10 Negronis and Aperol Spritz, $7 Schooners, wines and spirits makes the decision almost obligatory for after work drinks. Along those lines, expect a very vibrant room, something COVID almost erased from our memories – so you can always look at booking a little later if you’re looking for a more intimate experience. Regardless what you decide, start with the oysters, and you can’t go wrong whether they are served natural, Kilpatrick or even battered. Surprisingly, its the latter that win me over with a wicked Habanero mayonnaise to dip them into – although I loved the smokiness in the Kilpatrick. To be honest, I literally just scratched the surface of what is available, but I like what is in place.
The surprises (in a good way) continue with the Chevre and caramelised leek tart, camouflaged by a lively petite salad that cuts across the more-ish richness of the pastry and divine texture at play. It signals that I am in good hands, when something as simple as this has gone horribly wrong elsewhere on too many occasions. Similarly, their innovatively presented steak tartare with superb ficelle, organic French radish, generous in both portion and displaying excellent acidity, leaves me feeling excited about this new iteration of this much-loved site. The astutely steamed pink snapper, garnished with spiced saffron tomatoes dances beautifully between sweet and acidic, sitting atop a noteworthy soubise. Lovely dish!
Having visited Milly Hill, and eaten their produce countless times over the years, this Barnsley Lamb Chop is the best representation of their game changing operation that I have tasted to date. Fat is flavour, and combined with the sigh worthy texture and overall execution, it takes their point of difference to the next level. The house made mint sauce seals the deal, and despite the protein tipping the scales at around 450 grams, it is devoured with a passion and is reason enough to return. This a case of both Chef and producer being in total synergy on the plate, and reviving a cut that deserves more attention.
Depending on supply and demand, there is a daily special of premium house aged steak, however the standard grill menu more than covered us in its absence with a 280g Black Angus Sirloin, with their take on Café de Paris, and Paris mash if you prefer that instead of fries. The Montague broiler, very popular in the United States, delivers the textural guarantee of sous-vide with the extreme temperature simultaneously searing the beef and internalising the flavour. There is a distinct smokiness, which is counterpointed nicely by the Béarnaise that I specially requested, which is both rich and tangy and absolutely exceptional.
Should you still have the room, desserts are kept more in the classical spectrum with Cheesecake, Trifle, profiteroles and ice cream and sorbet, but that does not mean the easier road was taken. By way of example, the Basque cheesecake which can be tricky in terms of achieving the right balance with its texture is delightful – with the orange blossom caramel a thoughtful combination. I honestly believe the scope for what can be achieved here by Sunday Co. is still very much “in play”, as what they have delivered to date is everything that I could have hoped for so early on – and I see more possibilities as they have assembled the right team that will position them to do so. Meanwhile, I observed and heard a room full of very excited drinkers and diners, and that always brings a smile to my face!
By Dane Richards
Morrison’s Oyster Bar & Grill
Monday to Thursday 11.30am to 12am, Friday to Saturday 11.30am to 1am, Sunday 11.30am to 10pm
02 92476744
225 George Street Corner of, Grosvenor St, Sydney NSW 2000
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Image credits: Steven Woodburn (main, Snapper), Mia Forrest (Kilpatrick, Barnsley Chop)
