Let’s get something clarified from the get go, forget what perceptions the name may imply to some, this is a Restaurant and Bar, and it is a very good one. Located below The Bavarian on George Street, although both use the same street level entry point, you enter by stairs directly on your left. What you will discover is a multi-levelled space showcasing the Bar as its focal point. However, the large open kitchen and Restaurant seating wrap around that island, offering up a range of both intimate and group seating. Fittingly, the cocktail game is very strong, and if you need an immediate showstopper, order the Hustler’s flame for both theatre and substance!
Without any prior knowledge, what pleasantly took me by surprise is the impressive level of skill in the kitchen, and the consistency of their standards over two visits. Also, a concerted effort is noticeable in their Front of House delivery, which is now getting on par with the food. From the small sharing menu, the fully sesame encrusted prawn toast is an instant fave, with the salmon roe and garlic mayo sealing the deal, so good luck stopping at just one serve! Its a shame the more-ish Shark Bay King Prawns has gone, however the well-executed MB4+ Wagyu Beef Intercostal Skewers with sticky hoisin and togarashi more than makes up for it.
On this second visit, I try the plump Hokkaido scallops, served in their shell, with green chilli relish and toasted peanuts. It has a lovely resonating heat note with a Thai/ Vietnamese flavour profile to it. The well-presented Wagyu Beef Tartare showcases proficient knife skills with fried leeks, runny egg yolk and crackers to accompany a nice take on this classic. Similarly, the lovely textural King Fish Ceviche with coconut nam jhim, fried eschalot and shallot oil is well-balanced, with excellent acidity throughout.
The Bread and Bơ, a crusty Vietnamese style Baguette with mayo and chicken liver pâté is certainly worth a look, but the signature Bone Marrow Mi Goreng with garlic oil and fried egg is simply a must have. When its this good, you can build a restaurant around the dish, and they have. The luscious marrow adds a decadence to what traditionally is a street food dish, but it wouldn’t work unless the noodles were absolutely on point – and they are. Its a cohesive flavour bomb that will have you returning, and telling all your foodie friends about this dish. For Vegans and Vegetarians, the Green Tea Soba Noodles with garlic sesame sauce, kimchi, shallot relish, roasted peanuts, quail eggs and black sesame crackers hits the mark.
New to the menu, is the memorable (Adobo influenced) take on Shepherd’s Pie, with braised leg, copious Desiree potato and coriander. Place orders around it, as it takes at least thirty minutes to finish off properly, but wow is it worth the wait! Initially you may question its context on the menu, and especially at this time of the year, but like me you will be wrong. Dishes like this will always belong year round, because fundamentally they bring joy and properly feed people – a concept that sadly has somehow been lost along the way in recent times.
The fried ice cream with red miso butterscotch and caramelised banana satisfies all my guilty pleasures, and for chocoholics, the Pudding with almond praline, coconut condensed milk and toasted coconut will do likewise. Hustlers already has established a very loyal following, however in my opinion is still under the radar from a wider critique perspective, and I have been around long enough to spot a talented kitchen brigade that consistently deliver above commonly held perceptions. Described on opening as being a unique fusion of South-East Asian cuisine, its strength is taking traditional flavours, viewing them through a contemporary lens, and applying modern techniques. Mission accomplished on that front, and like me, when you take or recommend places to others – if you want to minimise any possibility of disappointment, then Hustlers fits that brief like a glove!
By Dane Richards
Hustlers SYD
Tuesday to Saturday 12pm to 3pm and 5pm to late
0402 641 929
LG/24 York St, Sydney NSW 2000
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Image credits: Kera Wong (except for Shepards Pie & Fried ice cream)
