The appointment of talented Chef Jason McCauley in October 2022 (ex Banc, Carpaccio & Metisse Group) has elevated Jaaks to another level. Its current degustation is amongst the finest showcasing of Greek and Cypriot cuisine in the country. The new Chef’s synergy with respected owners George Christodoulou and Diana Valsamis, and Restaurant Manager Harry Sarantidis is clearly evident to see in every aspect of the operation, with the evolution in just over twelve months since my last visit quite stunning. Whilst as part of The Kyle Bay on Georges River, they also do functions up to 250 guests in this stunning waterside venue, its the restaurant which is truly the jewel in the crown – and it has now arrived in a big way!
The six course degustation menu for $110 ($190 with wine pairings) in my opinion represents incredible value in Sydney and surrounds, given the level of technical execution that underpins it. It also is important to acknowledge that the sophistication on the plate is backed up by an authenticity and layering of flavours and textures which will truly be the thing that wins you over. The more-ish trio of Mezedakia (snacks), haloumi keftedaki, melitzanosalata tart, and pork and red wine loukaniko immediately validates the duty of care that is in the kitchen. The same could be said of the cocktails we tried in the comfortable and chilled lounge area prior to moving into the stylish dining space that provides lovely views of Kyle Bay.
The Kolokythoanthoi, a triumphant textural masterpiece of zucchini flowers, featuring feta, ricotta, kefalograviera, with a more-ish avgolemono is entirely memorable, and I would go as far to say unforgettable. It is a clean, modern interpretation of a much loved dish, beautifully presented and flawlessly executed. Xifias Plaki follows, and the rustic flavour construct of swordfish, tomatoes, olives, capers, and mint sings with evocative notes of the Mediterranean – confirmation of both style and substance.
The 14 page beverage list thoughtfully curated by Restaurant Manager/Head Sommelier Harry Sarantidis, features not only excellent Greek wines which were astutely showcased during the pairing, but include a wider representation of local and International wines should that be more your preference. However in my opinion, the Greek wines selected form part of the emotional and cultural journey that you undertake when you dine here. The enthusiasm of the passionate Front of House team is infectious, giving you every reason to embrace that ethos, rather than twisting your arm.
The more-ish bread, which they innovatively prove at your table during the earlier courses arrives perfectly baked. Apart from the theatre involved, it also proves handy in mopping up whatever is left from the take on Afelia, a deftly rolled pork fillet in coriander seeds, served with an unctuous red wine jus, and silky Jerusalem artichoke. The Wellington, which appears to have made a revival (in more ways than one) is played out here with lamb sheftalia, prosciutto, tomato, coriander, and tahini. The pastry work is noteworthy, and the taste profile works particularly well in this context.
The refreshing aniseed infused watermelon palate cleanser does its job after the strong set of savoury elements beforehand. Dessert is Daktyla, a traditionally crisp house made pastry, with custard, almond, and candied walnut. It is long and decoratively garnished with edible flowers, and conceptually well-grounded like the majority of dishes, which ultimately is what most appeals to me about Jaaks. The finesse evident in every course never threatens to undermine the Greek/Cypriot narrative, which is a joyous celebration of both life and food.
Jaaks which recently took out best Greek Restaurant in Australia at the Restaurant and Catering awards, is a restaurant on the rise that deserves wider attention. I truly hope the locals fully appreciate what is on their doorstep, as it is becoming a restaurant of significance. On the night of this review, it was also hosting two large simultaneous functions, and impressively it did not miss a beat. To coin a Michelin phrase, it is most definitely “worth a detour”, and this is fine dining that respects its chosen cultural roots, at a price point that will allow you to even return outside of those special occasions.
By Dane Richards
Jaaks Restaurant and Bar
12 Merriman St, Kyle Bay NSW 2221
(02) 9546 5953
Opening times: Friday to Saturday 12pm to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm, Sunday 12pm to 4pm
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Bookings: https://www.jaaks.com.au/reservations
