Restaurants, both very good and bad, open and close every day, so why did we feel so affected when One Penny Red (OPR) announced it was closing its doors after ten years? Well, for starters, it redefined the boundaries and expectations for an inner city restaurant – not only in terms of its food and service delivery, but also the horizons it strived for in beverage excellence (think Summer Hill ten years ago for context). In an era of expanding Hospitality Groups – it punched way above its weight and burned the flame for the independent that still dared to dream big (without the budget). In their time they established an experience that was entirely authentic and memorable. It wasn’t about awards on walls – it was the intangible joy and buzz of their dining room that was more intoxicating to them, more rewarding, more substantial.
For those who know me, I’ve always said any food journey begins with an idealistic, albeit well-intentioned fervour, and serendipitously ends up with the far more profound realisation that’s its actually all about the people you meet along the way. The lasting friendships that are forged, the sharing of tables, the breaking of bread, and the meaningful conversations that mean so much more. The team at OPR just encompasses that sentiment, with one of the most genuine expressions of hospitality, underpinned by with heart and soul – that I have seen. Similarly, Vernon’s Bar upstairs offered another space, another aspect – to bring local people together in this charming former Post Office.
One piece of advice I always give young food reviewers or bloggers is don’t be seduced by the wow, as it ends up as a somewhat quixotic pursuit, because with time and hindsight, you will realise that consistency is of far more importance. Chef RJ Lines never pretended to be anything other than himself on the plate. His duty of care to producers was second to none, always deferring to showcasing their primary ingredient in an uncomplicated and immensely flavoursome way. Likewise, if you were picking 300 to represent Sparta today, his long standing sous chef Ruben would be amongst the first chosen. Proper. Genuine. When you booked a table at OPR you knew there would be no smoke and mirrors, it was real food, cooked by real people.
Sommelier David Murphy then took it to the next level, with a thoughtfully curated wine list that added gravitas at very accessible price points, served with a knowledgeable and refreshingly down to earth approach. A good example were the legendary cellar nights (often booked out months in advance), where an unknown label was treated with exactly the same respect as a back vintage first growth. The point being, OPR was always egalitarian in its wine service, whether you ordered the lowest or highest priced glass or bottle from the list. There was also the educational aspect that was fostered through the popular Wine Club events, however in truth, it was evident with every glass poured at OPR. One sensed an absolute connection with the Vineyard or Winemaker – their story being told, with reverence.
And last, but certainly not least was Nina Alidenes. A Restaurant is the sum of all its small parts, and Nina brought all those component parts together seamlessly for OPR. A recent function I held there was like a dream, and whether it was all the unseen logistics, vision, or the grace on the floor leading the team during a busy service, her contribution to OPR was inestimable. The staff retention was a barometer of the culture fostered, as like the diners, they wanted to hang around – it felt special to them also. They were part of the OPR family, and when you pulled up a chair that’s what it felt like, the burdens of life were lifted. A restaurant should be an ongoing two way conversation with the diner, and that is how it rolled.
I genuinely love restaurants, some people have said to me perhaps too much. When I wrote a similar piece many years ago about a restaurant that closed, it was questioned why I got so emotional about a Bistro. It’s never just a Bistro, it’s someone’s dream, their labour of love, often families and relationships are inexorably linked to all the emotional and financial highs and lows. Mortgages, stress, mental health, the list is entirely endless. It’s the toughest Industry in the world, but conversely the most rewarding. The tireless hours, traded in a second, for the joy it can bring to someone in an instant. Restaurants are important to the fabric of our society, when they hurt, we all hurt in some way.
Similarly, Restaurants like One Penny Red, mean things to people. After it was announced that it was closing, its taken until know to quantify what it meant to me. It was about the unwavering dedication to not only their local community, but the broader Hospitality family. The conviviality, the shared experiences, watching a group of dedicated professionals striving to make a difference every service. Going the extra mile, walking not talking the very essence of the word Hospitality. Things that matter to me (a lot). So its only fitting I that leave the last word to them, who we hope might get back together again (one day soon). Regardless, from the bottom of this food critics heart – thanks for the memories RJ, Dave, Nina and the whole OPR family!
It has been an honour and a privilege to join our guests in creating
wonderful memories within these walls and wish to thank all of you for the
support you’ve shown us in the past (almost) decade.
“I’m extremely proud and humbled by the success of One Penny Red and
Vernon’s Bar – my first business venture. I am so grateful for the support of
the local community for championing local, ethical and seasonal produce. A huge
thank you is due to our suppliers and producers.
It has been my great pleasure to work alongside some amazingly talented
hospitality professionals and to have had the honour of contributing to their
careers.
And, of course. the biggest thank you to my family for their unwavering
love and support”
-RJ Lines
Summer Hill is home to one of the most vibrant and close-knit communities
in Sydney. To be part of that, not only with One Penny Red and Vernon’s Bar but
also Envy Cafe and Gallery (2004 to 2013) and Manna Restaurant, Petersham
(2000-2006) has been a privilege.
I have been lucky enough to see the impact of bringing high-quality
dining to the inner west: where Manna, Envy, OPR and Vernon’s came, many others
followed.
Over nearly ten years, OPR and Vernon’s have been the sites of weddings,
birthdays, memorials and reunions.
To host such significant life events for our beloved customers has been
an honour.
It has been the highlight of my professional career to steer the OPR and
Vernon’s team.
It goes to show that dining is never simply about food.
It is about how you feel, and how you are served.
– Nina Alidenes
‘Having OPR has been a humbling and rewarding experience. Receiving local
and national accolades has allowed us to build our own community of dedicated
wine and food enthusiasts. Wine events like our ‘Wine Club’ and ‘Raid Your
Cellar’ which began in our first few months of opening, have introduced so many
of our guests to wonderful wines and access to outstanding wine makers.
OPR created a local food culture which is now thriving and provided me
life long friendships along the way’
-David Murphy
By Dane Richards
