Nothing gives me more pleasure then when I see a restaurant fulfill its potential, and this current iteration sees Bar Patrón doing exactly that. It’s not just the revamped menu for Summer, or the refresh of the cocktail game, its about their whole team fully standing behind, and embracing the new concept – and it shows in all aspects of how it is being delivered to the diner. To indicate how serious the Pacific Concepts Group are, they sent their impressive newly promoted Head Chef Hayden Clarke to Hacienda Patrón in Mexico where the tequila is distilled. He returned renewed after two weeks with his newly inspired Australian-Mexican menu, showcasing our best local ingredients with modern takes on traditional Mexican recipes. Two visits since – and I can say this new direction most definitely works!
Lets start at the bar where Beverage Director Ali Toghani has overseen a similar transformation, reshaping the cocktail list with Mexican influenced drinks with some non-Mexican ingredients. The result being far more vibrant drinks like the Cancún Cooler with Patrón Reposado, Jamaica and grapefruit Cordial, lime juice and pomegranate soda. However don’t despair, their signature margarita is going nowhere (a steal at just $12 Monday to Friday between the 5-6pm happy hour). Meanwhile, the equally well-curated wine list is both interesting and priced to fit all budgets and palates for every occasion.
Mexican cannot start without a Guacamole, and this take is a textural delight with the silky avocado, toasted cashews, and coriander ready to be devoured with the bottomless serve of more-ish corn chips. Both the brisket and mushroom Quesadilla’s are exceptional, the slow cooked beef both layered and unctuous, the other an umami bomb, with the aromatics intoxicating you long before the joy of tasting it. The crispy tempura King prawn taco with molcajete salsa, charred lime and red cabbage is a rite of passage – leading to the more blingy signature surf and turf Patrón taco: steak asada, lobster, avocado mousse, grilled pineapple and roast Patrón silver salsa. Enough said.
The larger shared plates however are where the progression is most noticeable, firstly in the more refined plating, and then in the greater clarity of flavours, which also work in a more defined way cohesively. The Mulloway asado by way of example is cooked absolutely on point, showcasing the core taste profile, with the counterpoints of the acidity from the lime, and stunning vibrant capsicum salsa picante to elevate it further. Likewise, the braised mb4+ short ribs with tequila and chipotle sauce, once again showcases the Chefs restraint in not overcomplicating a dish just for the sake of it. It would be remiss not to mention how well the accomplished sides of infused jasmine poblano rice with coriander and charred corn, refried beans, and crispy potato revolcadas worked alongside the mains.
The luscious 500 gram wagyu Tajima rib eye takes it to the next level, served simply with a epazote chimichurri, which is precisely all it needs to accompany this quality of sourced beef. The hand made flour tortillas accompany all the mains, letting you loose to construct as you please. The playground dessert trio greets you with the decadent Tres Leche al Patrón, a milk and spiced tequila sponge cake, with cinnamon cream, and caramel or the much lighter Patrón take on Pavlova with meringues, seasonal fruit, lime curd, and chantilly. The remaining dessert tacos of caramelised banana, dulce de leche, chantilly, dark chocolate, and cinnamon are just a playful spin on the new direction, and to be honest just plain fun to eat.
Bar Patrón has without doubt come of age, not that the journey before was not worthwhile, its just now evolved into a venue that substantially and consistently delivers a polished experience for all occasions – by a longstanding team of passionate and experienced hospitality professionals proudly showcasing and pushing the limits for you every service. Kick around the tyres, whether it be just a lazy lunch, catching up with friends for happy hour, or a more formal date night/dinner – and discover for yourselves one of the hidden gems in Sydney.
By Dane Richards
Bar Patrón
Sunday to Thursday 12pm to 10pm, Friday to Saturday 12pm to 11pm
(02) 9189 1957
2 Phillip Street, Sydney NSW 2000
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