On my recent trips to Melbourne, visits to Pope Joan, Code Black Coffee and Duchess of Spotswood had me lamenting about the lack of something plausibly similar in Sydney, apart from The Grounds of Alexandria. Essentially, all started out as Cafes at the core, but simply refused to be restricted by that strict definition. Sensibly they chose to challenge their culinary brief, whilst always keeping the food real on the plate. Fortunately Three Williams on Elizabeth Street in Redfern has thrown its hat in the ring also, in an absolutely huge open space, which is truly everything to all people. It is 1.30pm on a nondescript Tuesday in its third week, and the joint is cranking with hipsters, mothers, foodies and working types who don’t appear to be in any particular hurry to go anywhere. The other thing that strikes me is the generous spacing of the tables, and the number of floor staff, which indicates that providing a comfortable space and relaxed experience is of premium importance to the owners.